Not the tinsel pattern yet, but the final part of my Bastille Day set, which I only just realised I left half done - I put up the royals, but not the peasants. So here they are; Jacques and his lovely wife Jacqueline.
REQUIRES
Yarn - small amounts of DK in tan, black, red, white, blue, and brown, grey, green, flecked oatmeal
Hook / Needles - 2.5 mm
Sundries - toy stuffing, toy safety eyes (small, brown iris or plain black), red fabric paint, tricolour ribbon
INSTRUCTIONS (Given in UK notation)
JACQUELINE
HEAD
Work as for Marie Antoinette but using tan DK, black or brown eyes, and omitting extra stitches for neck. For the hair cut several lengths of yarn in black, brown or grey (I used a blend of dark and light grey with streaks of black). Attach to the head tassel fashion in groups of three. You can give her the style of your choice - I went for a wild bird’s nest look, but you could Fasten it back in a pony tail or pull it up into a bun.
LIBERTY CAP
Using red make a magic ring and work 6 dc into it. Rd 1; (dc 1, inc 1) to end. 9. Rd 2 - 3; dc. Rd 4: (dc 1, inc 1). 12. Rd 5; dc. Rd 6; (dc 1, inc 1). 18. Rd 7; dc. Rd 8; (dc 2, inc 1). 24. Rd 9; dc. Rd 10; (dc 3, inc 1). 30. Rd 11; dc. Fasten off and stitch to head.
BODY
Make as for Marie Antoinette but using tan for the actual flesh colour and dark green or some other drab colour for the clothing. Stitch head on.
LEGS (make 2)
Work as for Marie but using black for shoes, tan for rest of legs (Jacqueline goes commando). Stitch to body.
SKIRT
Using drab green, attach to front loops of the body round worked through back loops. Dc all round. Rd 1; (dc 2, inc 1) to end. 24. Dc 16 rounds straight, fasten off.
ARMS (make 2)
As for Marie to round 7, but using tan. Change to dark green on round 7 and increase in every stitch. Work 2 rounds dc, fasten off, stuff and stitch to body.
APRON
Using flecked oatmeal dk, make 13 chain. Dc into 2nd chain from hook, dc into every chain to end. Turn.. Work 12 rows dc. Next row; chain 20, ss into each chain and across top of apron, chain 20 and ss back to main part of apron, forming the strings. Fasten off. If you like you can make a pocket by working five chain, and working four or five dc rows on that chain, then stitch to front of apron leaving open at top. Spatter with red fabric paint and tie round waist of doll.
ROSETTE
Using red, chain 2, dc 6 into 2nd chain. Fasten off leaving a tail. Using white, chain 2. Work 6 htr into 2nd chain. Fasten off. Using blue, chain 2. Work 6 dc into 2nd chain. Fasten off. Place the white rosette onto the blue, then the red onto the white and anchor together by using the red tail to stitch down through the three centres, then stitch to doll’s cap.
KNITTING
Using dark grey wind a tiny ball of yarn and secure with a clear drying fabric glue. When dry, cut both ends off a cocktail stick to make needles (you can make the round needle ends with a small blob of fabric paint or glue, or a tiny bit of air drying clay). Push needles into ball of yarn. You can stitch the ball to Jacqueline’s hand but I found it anchors well enough if you push one ‘needle’ through her hand and then into the ball. If you have given her a pocket you can push the knitting in so it shows at the top.
JACQUES
HEAD
As for Marie Antoinette but using tan, and brown or black eyes. For the hair cut strands in black, brown, or dark grey, or a mix of grey and black or brown. Cut it shorter than Jacqueline’s and attach tassel fashion.
CAP
As for Jacqueline.
BODY
As for Louis but using tan for flesh, flecked oatmeal for the shirt and dark green for breeches. Stitch head on.
LEGS AND FEET (make 2)
As for Louis but using tan for flesh, black for shoes, green for breeches. Stitch to body.
ARMS (make 2)
Work as for Louis but using tan and oatmeal, and omitting the fancy cuffs. Stitch to body and tie a little tricoleur sash around his body. Stitching the ends in place.
Spatter both these little revolutionaries with as much blood as you please, and turn them loose on the unfortunate little king and queen.
Here's the partner to Marie Antoinette, King Louis.
REQUIRES
Yarn - Twinkle DK approx 20g white and 10g lilac; Goldfingering light gold, 10g; Pearl DK 20g white; cream DK 15g.
Hook / Needles - 2.5mm
Sundries - toy eyes, toy stuffing, narrow black ribbon, velcro, stick on pearls, black fabric paint.
INSTRUCTIONS (Given in UK notation)
HEAD
Work as for Marie Antoinette using cream. Using black fabric paint make moustache and beard.
WIG
Work as for Marie (Pearl DK) until both side rolls are complete. To work back reattach yarn to wider section between rolls. Work 1 row dc, then dec at each end of next 4 rows. On last row work dc to centre back, then make 5 chain. Dc on these chain, ss into same stitch and then complete row as normal and fasten off. Decorate with black ribbon. Stitch to head.
RUFF
Work as for Marie. Stitch to neck and then stitch velcro to bottom of neck.
CROWN
Using white Twinkle work as for head to end rd 1. Rd 2; inc in all stitches. 24. Rd 3; dc. Rd 4; dc in back loops only. Rd 5; (dc2, dec 1) to end. 18. Rd 6; dc. Switch to goldfingering. Rd 7; dc. Ss to finish off. Using goldfingering reattach yarn to gold row and work surface crochet line up one side, across top and down the other. Repeat so you are dividing crown into quarters, but on this line work as follows where the lines cross: Ch 3, dc into 3rd chain, dc into same stitch as ch. Fasten off, stuff crown and stitch to head.
BODY
Using lilac Twinkle work as for Marie to Rd 3. Rd 4 -8; dc. Switch to white Twinkle. Rds 9 - 11; dc. Rd 12; (dc 2, dec 1) to end. 18. Stuff. Rd 13; dc 9, ss across to 1st stitch of round forming a tube. Dc 4 rds on these 9 stitches and fasten off leaving long tail. Reattach yarn to unused stitches and work a tube as before. Stuff breeches leaving space to insert lower legs.
LEGS AND FEET (make 2)
Work as for Marie’s legs using lilac twinkle for shoes and Pearl for stockings. Stuff, insert leg ends into breeches and stitch firmly with tail ends.
TRIMS
Using goldfingering work line of surface crochet around waist, starting at centre front. Ss to complete ring then crochet up front and round neck. Fasten off. Using goldfingering embroider a line for pockets, and buckles on shows. Add narrow black ribbon at side of breeches at knee. Stick on tiny pearls for buttons on waistcoat.
ARMS (make 2)
Work as for Marie using White Twinkle instead of Pearl and Pearl for cuffs.
COAT
Using white Twinkle make 21 chain. Work 2 rows dc on these chain. On next row dc 2, chain 5, skip 5 stitches, dc 7, htr to end. On next row htr 7, dc to end working 1 dc into each chain. Work 5 rows of dc at top, htr (if this is not wide enough for your doll work more, or less if it is too wide). Work another 5dc armhole to match first, then 3 rows dc. Fasten off. Slipe coat over arms. Roll back neck and stitch down, then stitch around armholes. Sew velcro to top of body.
Quatorze Juillet is almost here and I have been making some decorations for the day.
Besides the bunting I'm making amigurumi figures for a display; Marie Antoinette and King Louis will be facing the wrath of a couple of revolutionary peasants (the lady complete with knitting for keeping busy beside the guillotine). Marie and Louis have detachable heads held on by velcro. My mother says I have a macabre sense of humour but my daughter says that's a good thing, so there you go.
MARIE ANTOINETTE
REQUIRES
Yarn - Cream DK, small amount; white and lilac Twinkle DK, about 20g each; Goldfingering light gold, about 10g; white Pearl DK, about 20g
Hook / Needles - 2.5mm
Sundries - toy stuffing, 6 or 8mm toy safety eyes (blue or black), small amount of Velcro, very small stick-on gems or pearls, black fabric paint, narrow pink ribbon
INSTRUCTIONS (Given in UK notation)
HEAD
Using cream DK, make a magic ring and work 6 dc into it. Rd 1; inc all round. 12. Rd 2; (dc 1, inc 1) to end. 18. Rd 3; (dc 2, inc 1) to end. 24. Rd 4: (dc 3, inc 1) to end. 30. Rds 5 - 8; dc. Rd 9: (dc 3, dec 1). 24. Rd 10: (dc 2, dec 1). 18. Insert safety eyes, positioning at about Rd 4 approx 5 stitches apart. Rd 11; (dc1, dec 1). 12. Stuff carefully, making sure you get stuffing between eyes. Rd 12; dec all round. 6. Rds 13 - 14; dc. Fasten off leaving long tail, run tail through last six stitches and sew in tight.
WIG
Using white Pearl work as for head to end of rd 4. Rds 5 - 6; dc. Rd 7; dc 4, turn. [Work 3 rows dc on these 4 stitches, then ss the last row to the first forming a roll. Ch1, dc into the same 4 stitches and make 2 more rolls. ] Fasten off. Skip 8 stitches on main part of wig and reattach yarn. Work 4 dc, and repeat from [ to ]. Fasten off and reattach yarn on other side of rolls. Work one row dc, turn. On next 3 rows decrease 1 at each end, fasten off. For beehive (pompadour) work 4 dc in a magic ring. Rd 1; inc all round. 8. Rd 2; (dc 1, inc 1) to end. 12. Rd 3; dc. Rd 4; (dc 2, inc 1) to end. 16. Rd 5; dc. Rd 6: (dc 3, inc 1) to end. 20. Rd 7; dc. Rd 8; (dc3, dec 1) to end. 16. Fasten off, stuff, and sew to top of wig. Decorate with stick on gems, beads or pearls, make bows with narrow pink ribbon above the rolls and at front base of pompadour. Stitch to head.
RUFF
Using Goldfingering light gold make 5 chain. Dc into 2nd chain from hook, dc into each chain to end. 4. Chain 3, ss into first chain (picot). Dc into back loops of last row. Turn. Work alternate rows of picot row/ back loop row till you have 12 picots. Slipstitch first row to last and fasten off leaving a long tail. Run tail through the row ends on the non-picot side and pull up till ruff forms ring. Stitch to bottom of head. Now stitch one piece of the Velcro to neck in centre of ruff, so ruff hides it.
BODY
Using lilac Twinkle make magic ring. Work as for head to Rd 3. Rds 4 - 5; dc. Rd 6; (dc 2, dec 1) to end. 18. Rd 7; dc. Switch to white Twinkle. Rd 8; dc through back loops. Rd 9; (dc 2, inc 1) to end. 24. Rd 10 - 12; dc. Rd 13; (dc 2, dec 1) to end. 18. Rd 14; (dc 1, dec 1) to end. 12. Stuff body. Rd 15; dec all round, fasten off, draw up and pull tight.
LEGS (make 2)
Using lilac Twinkle make 5 chain. Dc into 2nd chain from hook and into next 2 chain. Into last chain work 3 dc, then turn and work down other side as follows; dc 2 into next 2 chain, 2dc into last chain. 10. Rd 1; dc. Rd 2; dc 3, dec 2, dc 3. 8. Rd 3; dc 2, dec 2, dc 2. 6. Fasten off lilac, switch to white Pearl, stuff foot. Dc 7 rounds, stuffing as you go. Fasten off and stitch to bottom of body.
SKIRT
Using white Twinkle reattach yarn to front loops of body Rd 8. Dc all round. Rd 1; (c 3, inc 1) to end. 30. Rd 2; increase to 36 stitches, not evenly but clustering 3 inc stitches at each side of body. Where the increases come will depend on where you reattached the yarn. Rd 3; increase again to 42, clustering inc stitches at sides as before. [ds 4 - 5; dc. Rd 6; dc in back loops only. ] Repeat [ to ] 3 times. Fasten off white and switch to lilac Twinkle. Last rd; (dc 2; into next st work htr, tr, htr) to end. Fasten off, sew in ends. Sew oither section of Velcro on top at neck. Reattach lilac Twinkle to first round worked through back loops and work into front loops as follows; (c, ch3, miss 1 dc, dc) to end. Repeat this into the other missed front loop rounds, alternating Goldfingering and lilac Twinkle. Finally work another frill round around the posts of the last white round, working the fans at the low points between the lilac fans.
ARMS (make 2). Using cream make magic ring, work 6 dc into it. Rd 1; (dc 1, inc 1). 9. Rd 2; dc. Rd 3; (dc 1, dec 1) to end. 6. Change to white Pearl. Rd 4; dc through back loops only. Rd 5 -10; dc. Fasten off and stuff. Attach lilac Twinkle to missed front loops and work (dc, htr, tr, htr) into each stitch. Fasten off. Sew arms to body.
FAN
Using Goldfingering make 2 ch. Work 2 dc into 2nd chain from hook. Turn. Inc in each stitch. 4. Continue to turn and inc 1 at each row end until you have 10 stitches. Last row; (c, ch3, skip in dc, dc) to end. Fasten off. Starch fan. When it is dry, sew to hand.
Marie and her spouse King Louis - before the revolution.
I've not been feeling too good this week, pollen highs have really affected my sinus trouble and made life hell. Still, cheered myself up making this fruity little cluster to hang off my daughter's new college bag - when we get the bag, that is!
Here's another of my crochet patterns. This angelic Hello Kitty doll hides a secret -
inside she's a bit of a devil!
REQUIRES
Yarn - 50g each of white, black, red and lilac; small amounts black and white Twinkle or other sparkling yarn)
Hook / Needles - 3 mm
Sundries - 4 toy eyes, 2 noses (or black and yellow felt), toy stuffing
INSTRUCTIONS (Given in UK notation)
HEAD (make 2 - one white, one red)
Begin with Head A in red.
Make 11 chain. Rd 1; work 1 dc into 2nd chain from hook, dc into next 8 chain, 3 dc into last chain. Turn the work and work down the other side of the base chain - 8 dc, inc in last stitch. 22 stitches. Rd 2; inc 1, dc 8, inc 3, dc 8, inc 2. 28. Rd 3; Inc 1, dc 9, inc 1, dc 1, inc 1, dc 1, inc 1, dc 9, inc 1, dc 1, inc 1, dc 1. 34. Rd 4; inc 1, dc 10, inc 1, dc 2, inc 1, dc 2, inc 1, dc 10, inc 1, dc 2, inc 1, dc 2. 40. Rd 5: inc 1, dc 11, inc 1, dc 3, inc 1, dc 3, inc 1, dc 11, inc 1, dc 3, inc 1, dc 3. 46. Rd 6; dc. Rd 7: inc 1, dc 12, inc 1, dc 4, inc 1, dc 4, inc 1, dc 12, inc 1, dc 4, inc 1, dc 4. 52. Rd 8; dc. Rd 9: inc 1, dc 13, inc 1, dc 5, inc 1, dc 5, inc 1, dc 13, inc 1, dc 5, inc 1, dc 5. 58. Rd 10 - 12: dc. Rd 13; dec 1, dc 13, dec 1, dc 5, dec 1, dc 5, dec 1, dc 13, dec 1, dc 5, dec 1, dc 5, 52. Rd 14; dc. Rd 15: dec 1, dc 12, dec 1, dc 4, dec 1, dc 4, dec 1, dc 12, dec 1, dc 4, dec 1, dc 4. 46. Rd 16; dc. Rd 17; dec 1, dc 14, dec 1, dc 4, dec 1, dc 17, dec 1, dc 3. 42. Rd 18; dc. Rd 19; (dec 1, dc 3, dec 1, dc 7), repeat twice. 36. Rd 20; dc. Rd 21; (dec 1, dc 2, dec 1, dc 6) repeat to end. 30. Rd 22; dc. Rd 23; (dec 1, dc 1, dec 1, dc 5) repeat to end. 24. Rd 24; dc.
On head A, ss from last to first and fasten off. On Head B (white) do not fasten off but put last stitch on a holder while fixing features and stuffing. On both heads position and fix eyes and nose, and stuff. Embroider whiskers with black yarn.
BODY
Using lilac, attach yarn to last stitch of Head B. Rd 1; dc. Rd 2; dc 5, inc 1, dc 11, inc 1, dc to end. 26. Rd 3; dc 1, inc 1, dc 12, inc 1, dc to end. 28. Rd 4; dc 5, inc 1, dc 1, inc 1, dc 11, inc 1, dc 1, inc 1, dc to end. 32. Rd 5; dc 7, inc 1, dc 13, inc 1, dc to end. 34. Rd 6; dc. Rd 7; dc 8, inc 1, dc 16, inc 1, dc to end. 36. Rd 8; dc 8, inc 1, dc 17, inc 1, dc to end. 38. Rd 9; dc. Rd 10; dc 9, inc 1, dc 18, inc 1, dc to end. 40. Rd 11; dc. Change colour to black. Rd 12; dc. Rd 13; dc 9, dec 1, dc 18, dec 1, dc to end. 38. Rd 14; dc. Rd 15; dc 8, dec 1, dc 17, dec 1, dc to end. 36. Rd 16; dc 8, dec 1, dc 16, dec 1, dc to end. 34. Rd 17; dc. Rd 18; dc 7, dec 1, dc 13, dec 1, dc to end. 32. Rd 19; dc 5, dec 1, dc 1, dec 1, dc 11, dec 1, dc 1, dec 1, dc to end. 28. Rd 20; dc 1, dec 1, dc 12, dec 1, dc to end. 26. Rd 21; dc 5, dec 1, dc 11, dec 1, dc to end. 24. Rd 22; dc. Ss from last to first and fasten off. Stuff body and stitch Head B in position facing same way as A.
EARS (make 2 red, 2 white)
Begin with magic ring, make 6dc into it. Rd 1: (inc 1, dc 1) to end. 9. Rd 2; (inc 1, dc 2) to end. 12. Rd 3; (inc 1, dc 3) to end. 15. Rd 4; (inc 1, dc 4) to end. 18. Rd 5; (inc 1, dc 5) to end. 21. Fasten off, stuff, and stitch to head.
BOW (make 1 lilac, 1 black or Twinkle black)
Part 1: make 8 chain. Rd 1; Work 1 dc into 2nd chain from hook, dc into next 5 chain, 3 dc into last chain. Turn so you are working down back of chain; work 5 dc, inc in last stitch. 16. Rd 2; (inc 1, dc 5, inc 1, dc 1), repeat. 20. Rd 3; (inc 1, dc 7, inc 1, dc 1), repeat. 24. Ss from last to first stitch, fasten off.
Part 2: make magic ring, work 6 dc into it. Rd 1; (inc 1, dc 1) to end. 9. Ss from last to first and fasten off.
Using length of same yarn, draw Part 1 up tightly at the centre and stitch to hold, leaving a long tail. Stitch Part 2 to centre of Part 1, then use tail to sew bow to head next to one ear.
ARMS (make 2 red/black, 2 white/lilac).
Begin with red for Devil Kitty, white for Angel Kitty. Make magic ring and work 6 dc into it. Rd 1; inc all round. 12. Change to lilac for angel, black for devil. Rd 2; dc through back loops only. Rd 3 - 14; dc. Rd 15; dc 3, dec 1, dc 3, dec 1, dc 2. 10. Fasten off, stuff and attach to body.
RUFF (make 1 in lilac or sparkling white, I in plain or sparkling black)
Make 8 chain. Row 1; dc into 2nd chain from hook, dc to end. 7. Row 2; ch 1 (does not count as stitch), dc into back loops of all dc. 7. Repeat Row 2 x 58 (you ma=y have to make it longer or shorter, depending how wide your kitty’s neck is and how thick your yarn; remember it is gathered up, so has to be wider than the actual neck measurement). Fasten off leaving very long tail. Using this and darning needle run yarn through row ends along one edge and gather up, not too tightly - you can check it by placing it round the neck and loosening or tightening as required. Position on neck with gathered edge at top and open ends at back, sew in position and finally sew first and last row together to form ruff seam.
WINGS
(DEVIL - make 2)
Using red make 4 chain. Row 1; dc into 2nd ch from hook, dc to end. 3. Ch 1, turn. Row 2; dc 3, dc 4, turn. Row 3; dc into 2nd chain and next 2 chain, htr into 3 dc of last row. 6. Ch 1, turn. Row 4; dc 3, ch 5. Turn. Row 5; dc into 2nd ch from hook and next 3 ch, htr into 3 dc of last row. 7. Ch 1, turn. Row 6; dc 4, ch 6. Turn., Row 7; dc into 2nd ch and next 4 st, 4 htr. 9. Ch 3. Work 8 dc evenly along top edge opposite points, ss into 1st chain made and fasten off. Stitch to back.
(ANGEL - make 2)
Using white make 4 ch. Row 1; dc into 2nd chain from hook, dc to end. 3. Turn. Row 2; ss into 3 dc, make 3 ch. Turn. Row 3; dc into 2nd ch from hook, dc to end. 5. Turn. Row 4; ss into all 5 stitches, make 3 ch, turn. Row 5; dc into 2nd ch from hook, dc to end. 7. Turn. Row 6; ss into all 7 stitches, make 3 ch. Turn. Row 7; dc into 2nd ch from hook, dc to end. 9. Turn. Row 8; ss into all 9 stitches, make 3 ch. Turn. Row 9; dc into 2nd ch from hook, dc to end. 11. Do not turn. Make 3 chain, work 6 dc evenly along top edge to starting ch. Fasten off and stitch in place.
TAIL
(ANGEL)
Using white make magic ring, work 6 dc into it. Rd 1; dc 2, inc 1, dc 2, inc 1. 8. Rd 2 - 4; dc. Fasten off, stuff lightly and stitch to outside of gown. (I recommend you attach the tails during working of the gowns, when they are about half the full length - it is easier to attach the tails before you have the full gown completed).
(DEVIL)
Using red, make 8 chain and join in a ring with ss. Rd 1; dc in every chain. 8. Rd 2 - 4; dc. Rd 5; dc 2, dec 1, dc 2, dec 1. 6. Rd 6; dec all round till gap is closed. Do not fasten off. Down side of tail work 2 dc, ch 3, turn. Dc into 2nd chain from hook, dc into 2 dc already made. Now work down opposite side making 2 dc and 3 chain. Turn. Work dc into 2nd chain from hook, dc 2, ss into next dc. Turn. Dec I, fasten off. Stuff and stitch to outside of gown.
GOWNS (Make 2 - 1 using black and black twinkle for devil, 1 using lilac and white twinkle for angel)
Using body colour, attach yarn to row immediately above colour change and work 40 dc evenly round waist, working around the stem of your original stitches where possible. Be sure you are working in the right direction to have your gown right side out, and keep an eye on the size - you may need to make it wider or narrower, longer or shorter, depending on your yarn.
Rd 1; dc. Rd 2; (dc 3, inc 1) to end. 50. Rd 3; dc. Rd 4; (dc 4, inc 1) to end. 60. Rd 5 - 7; dc. Rd 8; (dc 9, inc 1) to end. 66. Rd 9; dc. Rd 10; (dc 10, inc 1) to end. 72. Rd 11; dc. Rd 12; (dc 11, inc 1) to end. 78. Rd 13 - 15; dc. Rd 16; (dc 12, inc 1) to end. 84. Rd 17 - 32; dc. Change to sparkly yarn for frill. Rd 33; dc through back loops only. Rd 34; (dc 1, htr 1, tr 3 into next 2 st, htr 1, dc 1) to end. 140. Ss from last stitch to 1st and fasten off. You may wish to stitch the two gowns together at the bottom edge; if you do I recommend you attach them where the frills begin, using invisible thread if possible. But It is not essential to do this as it is quite easy to turn them over without it.
If, like me, you remember the old animated series 'The Trap Door', you may like my pattern for a cuddly toy version of Berk, who was one of my childhood heroes. I also did a pattern for Boney but that will come later (I hope!).
Requirements: 50 g blue dk, about 25 g white, small amount of black, plastic canvas. 3.5 hook.
BODY: using blue make magic ring and work 6 dc into it. Round 1: inc in every dc. 12 stitches. Rd 2: {1 dc, inc}, repeat to end. 18 stitches. Rd 3: {inc, 2 dc} to last 4 dc, dc to end. 24 stitches. Rd 4: dc, inc, {3 dc, inc} to last 2 dc, dc to end. 30 stitches. Rd 5 - 7: dc to end. Rd 8: {4 dc, dec} to end. 25 stitches. Rds 9 - 19: dc to end. Rd 11: 1 dc, dec, {3 dc, dec} to last 2 dc, dc to end. 20 stitches. Rds 12 - 14: dc to end. Rd 15: {dec, dc 2} to end. 15 stitches. Rd 16: {2 dc, dec} to end. 12 stitches. Stuff body to this point. Rd 17: {dc, dec} to end. 8 stitches. Fasten off leaving long tail. Stuff body right to top opening. Using yarn needle and long tail, run yarn through top 8 dc, draw up tightly and fasten off.
FEET (Make 2): using blue, make a magic ring and work 4 dc into it, making sure you leave a long tail. Round 1: inc in every stitch (8). Rd 2: dc 3, inc in next 2 dc, 3 dc. (10). Rd 3: dc 4, inc in next 2 dc, dc 4. (12). Rd 4: working in back loops only, dc all round. Insert plastic canvas cut to size of sole and anchor using the long tail you began with. Rds 5 - 6: dc to end. Rd 7: ss across next 3 dc, dc 1, dec 2, dc 1, ss across last 3 dc. (10). Stuff the foot now. Rd 8: ss across 3 dc, dec 2, ss to end and into first stitch of round. Fasten off and attach to body.
ARMS (Make 2): using blue, make 2 chain. Into second chain from hook work 4 dc. Rd 1: dc into every stitch (4). Rd 2: dc 1, inc, repeat. (6). Rds 3 - 5: dc in every stitch. Stuff upper arm lightly. Rd 6: dc 1, inc 2, dc 2. (9). At this point the left and right hands are formed. LEFT Hand: dc 3, turn. Work 2 rows dc onto these 3 stitches. On last row ss from 3rd to 1st dc. Now work 3 dc down the side of the thumb, joining row ends together. Work 2 rows of straight dc on 6 remaining stitches, turning at each row end. Now dc 2, turn, and work 3 rows of dc on just these two stitches. Turn sideways and work 3 dc down sides, joining row ends to make tube. Slipstitch from the base of this finger to the base of the thumb. Work the 2nd and 3rd fingers as the first, except that the second finger slipstitches from the base of that to the first finger, and the third to the second. Fasten off leaving tail. Stuff hand lightly and close up gap with tail. Attach to left side of body. RIGHT hand: work as for left except that on completion of the thumb, slipstitch across to the opposite side of the thumb, so you begin the first finger alongside the thumb. When you complete the first finger ss not to the thumb but to the unused dc next to it, and from the base of the third finger to the thumb base. Fasten off and stuff as for left, close up and attach to body.
EYES (Make 2). Using white make magic ring and work 6 dc into it. Rd 1: inc in every stitch (12). Rd 2: dec in every stitch (6). Fasten off leaving long tail. Thread through 6 dc and pull up tight and fasten off. Embroider pupil using black. Attach to top of head.
MOUTH: embroider with black.
I created this pattern some time ago, based on a Japanese pattern authorised by Sanrio but with substantial changes to make it easier for European crocheters, and more traditionally English in costume style. If you do make it be aware that I do not hold any copyrights regarding Hello Kitty or Dear Daniel, and that it may be an offence to sell toys produced from this pattern.
Requires: approx 300 g white, 100g light grey, 50g lilac DK yarn. Small scrap black yarn. Toy eyes and noses, unless you prefer to embroider them (in which case, more black yarn and small amount yellow). 3.5 hook. Toy stuffing. The pieces up to the point where I mark off for Bride and Groom are common to both toys, so make 2 heads, 4 ears etc.
HEAD
Using white, make 8 chain. Work first round on both sides of chain. Rd 1; dc into next 7 chain, 3 dc into next chain. Dc into next 6 stitches, 2 dc into next. 18. From now until rd 8, join all rds. Rd2; (inc, dc 7, inc) to end. 24. Rd 3; (inc, dc 7, inc, dc, inc, dc) to end. 30. Rd 4; (inc, dc 8, inc, dc 2, inc, dc 2) to end. 36. Rd 5; (inc, dc 9, inc, dc 3, inc, dc 3) to end. 42. Rd 6; (inc, dc 10, inc, dc 4, inc, dc 4) to end. 48. Rd 7; (inc, dc 11, inc, dc 5, inc, dc 5) to end. 54. Rd 8 - 13; dc all round, do not join. Rd 14; (dec, dc 11, dec, dc 5, dec, dc 5) to end, join. 48. Rd 15; dc all round, do not join. Rd 16; (dec, dc 10, dec, dc 4, dec, dc 4) to end, join. 42. Rd 17; dc all round, do not join. Rd 18; (dec, dc 9, dec, dc 3, dec, dc 3) to end, join. 36. Rd 19; (dec, dc 8, dec, dc 2, dec, dc 2) to end, join. 30. Rd 20; (dec, dc 7, dec, dc, dec, dc) to end, join. 24. Rd 21; (dec, dc 4) to end, join. 20. Fasten off. If using toy eyes insert now. Position eyes on about 7 rows up and 7 stitches in from side - should be about 9 stitches between. Position nose between eyes about 5 rows up. Stuff head. Stitch 3 whiskers each side using black starting just above eye.
EARS (make 2)
Using white make magic ring. Rd 1; work 6 dc into ring, do not join. Rd 2; (inc, dc) to end. From now on join all rows. 9. Rd 3; (inc, dc 2) to end. 12. Rd 4; (inc, dc 3) to end. 15. Rd 5; (inc, dc 4) to end. 18. Rd 6; (inc, dc 5) to end. 21. Fasten off, stuff and stitch to head.
HANDS (make 2)
Using white make magic ring. Rd 1; 6 dc into ring, do not join. Rd 2; inc to end. Join. 12. Rd 3; (inc, dc) to end. Join. 18. Rd 4; dc to end. Rd 5; (dec, dc 4) to end, join. 15. Rd 6; dc to end. Rd 7; (dec, dc 3) to end, join. 12. Rd 8 - 11; dc to end. Rd 12; (dec, dc 2) to end, join. 9. Rd 13; (dec, dc) to end, join. 6. Fasten off. Stuff and stitch to body when completed.
TAIL
Using white make magic ring. Rd 1; 6 dc into ring, do not join. Rd 2; inc to end, join. 12. Rd 3 - 4; dc to end. Fasten off. Stuff and stitch to body when complete.
BOW TIES
Using lilac, make 8 chain (+ 1). Turn. Work 4 rows dc. Fasten off. Now make 4 chain (+ 1). Work 2 rows dc. Fasten off. Wrap smaller strip around centre of larger one, pulling tight to create bow effect, stitch base to secure..
SMALL FLOWERS
Make in white for Kitty’s neck bow and in lilac for Daniel’s buttonhole. Make 9 chain. Work 2 half trebles into second chain, ss into next 2 ch, 2 htr into next, repeat to end and fasten off leaving tail. Now roll up this strip so it forms the flower, stitching into place tightly using the tail.
BRIDE PIECES
BODY
Using white, make magic ring. Rd 1; 6 dc into ring. Join all increase and decrease rounds from now on. Rd 2; inc o end. 12. Rd 3; (inc, dc) to end. 18. Rd 4; (inc, dc 2) to end. 24. Rd 5; (inc, dc 3) to end. 30. Rd 6; (inc, dc 4) to end. 36. Rd 7; (inc, dc 5) to end. 42. Rd 8; (inc, dc 6) to end. 48. Rd 9 - 11; dc to end. Rd 12; (dec, dc 6) to end. 42. Rd 13; dc to end. Rd 14; (dec, dc 5) to end. 36. Rd 15; dc to end. Rd 16; (dec, dc 4) to end. 30. Rd 17; dc to end. Rd 18; (dec, dc 4) to end. 25. Rd 19; dc to end. Rd 20; (dec, dc 3) to end. 20. Rd 21; dc to end. Fasten off. Rejoin yarn to row 14 and work through stitches of that row. Rd 1; dc to end. 36. Rd 2; (inc, dc 5) to end. 42. Rd 3; (inc, dc 6) to end. 48. Rd 4; (inc, dc 7) to end. 54. Rd 5; (inc, dc 8) to end. 60. Rd 6; (inc, dc 9) to end. 66. Rd 7; dc. Rd 8; (inc, dc 10) to end. 72. Rd 9; dc. Rd 10; (inc, dc 11) to end. 78. Rd 11; dc. Rd 12; (inc, dc 12) to end. 84. Change to lilac. Rd 13 - 15; dc. Change back to white. Rd 16; dc. Rd 17; (inc, dc 3) to end. 105. Rd 18; dc. Rd 19; (inc, dc 4) to end. 126. Rd 20; (dc, work 1 htr and 1 treble into next stitch, 2 dtr into next, 1 tr + 1 htr into next, dc, ss into next) repeat to end. 21 repeats, 189 stitches. Fasten off. Stitch head, hands and legs to body when completed.
FEET (Make 2)
Using white make 6 chain. Work around both sides of chain. Rd 1; dc into next 4 chain, 3 dc into next chain, dc 3, 2 dc into next chain. 12. Rd 2; (inc, dc 3, inc) to end, join. 18. Rd 3 - 11; dc. Fasten off. Stuff and stitch to body.
MEDIUM FLOWERS
Use for bouquet and flower on Kitty’s head bow. Using lilac make 11 chain (+ 1). Work ( 2 htr into next chain, ss into next, 2) to end. Fasten off leaving tail. Roll around as for small flowers and secure.
LARGE FLOWERS (make 3)
For Kitty’s dress. Using lilac make 15 ch (+ 1). Work as for medium flowers, but work 2 ss between htrs. Roll up and secure as before, stitch to front of dress above lilac band.
BOUQUET BASE
For the frill around the bouquet. Using white, make magic ring. Rd 1; work 6 dc into ring. Rd 2; inc to end, join. 12. Rd 3; (ss into next stitch, ch 4) to end. Fasten off. Now stitch 3 lilac medium flowers into centre of bouquet and sew bouquet to hands.
NECK FRILL
Using white make 22 chain (+ 1). Row 1; dc to end. 22. Row 2; ch 3, tr2 into next stitch, (3 tr in next). Repeat ()to end. 66. Row 3; ch 3, tr in next stitch, (2 tr in next stitch) to end. 132. Fasten off. Stitch in place around neck. Sew neck bow in place on front, having secured flower to centre strip on bow first.
HEAD BOW
Using lilac make 12 chain (+ 1). Work 6 rows dc onto these chain, fasten off. Now using lilac make 9 chain (+ 1). Dc into each to end. Fasten off. Wind narrow strip round centre of wider on to form bow and secure. Stitch white medium flower to this strip. Sew bow to head next to left ear. Your bride is now complete.
GROOM PIECES
FEET (Make 2)
Using white make 6 chain + 1. Work around both sides of chain. Rd 1; dc 5, 3 dc in next stitch, dc 4, 2 dc in next st. 14. Rd 2; (inc, dc 4, inc 2) to end, join. 20. Rd 3; (inc, dc 5, inc, dc, inc, dc) to end, join. 26. Rd 4; (dec, dc 2, dec) to end, join. 20. Rd 5; (dec, dc 8) to end. 18. Rd 6 - 7; dc to end. Change to grey. Rd 8 - 15; dc to end. Fasten off. Stuff feet and join together at top with 2 stitches; your legs should be open tubes linked at the ‘groin’.
BODY.
Rejoin grey to legs and work 36 dc all round top of both legs to form first row of body. Rd 1 - 7; dc. Change to white. Rd 8; (dec, dc 7) to end, join. 32. Rd 9; dc. Rd 10; (dec, dc 6) to end, join. 26. Rd 11; dc to end. Rd 12; (dec, dc 5) to end, join. 20. Rd 13; dc to end. Fasten off. Attach head, tail, bowtie and arms to body.
VEST (Make 2)
Using lilac make 2 chain + 1. Row 1; dc in next 2 chain, ch1, turn. 2. Rd 2; inc, dc 1, ch 1, turn. 3. Continue increase at beginning of each row till you have 9 stitches. Work 3 rows dc. Next row; dec, dc 1, dec, turn. 3. Next row; dec, dc 1, turn. 2. Last row; dec. Fasten off. Stitch in place on front of body so one piece slightly overlaps the other. Work ‘buttons’ by stitching with white yarn.
JACKET
Using grey, make 11 chain + 1. Back. Row 1; dc to end. 11. Turn. Row 2 - 4; dc to end. Row 5; inc, dc 9, inc, ch 4, turn. 13 + 4. Row 6; work dc into 2nd chain and next 2 chain, dc to end, ch 4, turn. 16 + 4. Row 7; dc into 2nd chain, dc into next 2 chain and each dc to end. Ch 1, turn. 19. Rows 8 - 15; dc. Fasten off. Right front. Rejoin yarn to beginning of this piece with right side facing and work 3 dc, ch 1, turn. 3. Row 2 - 3; dc 3, ch 1, turn. Row 4; inc, dc 2, ch 1, turn. 4. Row 5; dc 3, inc, ch 1, turn. 5. Row 6; inc, dc 4, ch 1, turn. 6. Row 7; dc to end, ch 1, turn. Row 8; inc 1, dc 4, inc into next stitch, ch 1, turn. 8. Row 9 - 15; dc. SS side seam together from bottom to row 6 of back. Fasten off. Left front. Reattach to beginning of back piece on opposite side to right front and work as given for right front, reversing shapings. Fasten side seam as before. Sleeves (make 2). Using lilac make 21 chain, join. Rd 1; work 21 dc into chain. Change to grey. Rd 2; dc 12, dec 2, dc 3, dec. 18. Rd 3; dc 14, dec 2. 16. Rd 4; dc 14, dec. 15. Rd 5; dc to end. SS into place on main jacket. Lapels. Starting 4 rows up, attach grey to right front and work dc evenly up front, round neck and down left front to 4 rows up on that side. Turn. Work 2 rows dc. Fasten off. Fold out lapels so they lie flat. Reattach lilac to bottom edge of jacket and work dc up front edge, across bottom of lapel and up the side till you are about 4 stitches up from the start of the lapel. Now dc across 3 stitches together so you create a v shape in lapel. Work dc along rest of lapel and round neck till you reach the point opposite your v, and work another decrease over 3 here to match you first. Continue to bottom edge and fasten off. Sew buttonhole to jacket.
TOP HAT
Using grey make magic ring. Rd 1; work 6 dc into ring. Rd 2; inc in each. 12. Rd 3; (inc, dc 1) to end. 18. Rd 4; (inc, dc 2) to end. 24. Rd 5; working into back loops only, dc all round. Rd 6; dc to end. Rd 7; (dec, dc 2). 18. Rd 8; dc. Rd 9; (dec, dc 1) to end. 12. Rd 10; dc to end. Rd 11; dec all round. 6. Rd 12; inc, dc 1, inc 2, dc 1, inc. Join. 10. Rd 13; inc, dc 3, inc 2, dc 3, inc. 14. Join. Rd 14; inc, dc 5, inc 2, dc 5, inc. 19. Join, Fasten off. Stuff tube of hat. Using lilac make 18 ch. Work 1 row dc, fasten off. Stitch band in place round hat and sew in place. Your groom is now finished.
My daughter has a huge collection of cuddly toys and very limited space in her room so I created this patchwork hanger to house some of them and use up oddments of yarn. It was designed so a length of dowelling can be inserted in the top and it can be hung from an over-door hanger; but you could substitute a spring-loaded curtain rod of suitable length and hang it in an alcove or wardrobe. or miss off the hanger and add a simple edging to make it into a throw for a small bed or chair. I decorated each pocket with things I had around - crochet flowers made from yarn scraps, sew-on motifs, badges and beads and buttons. You can personalise it for your child with a colour or decor scheme, or by sewing on their name in felt letters.
REQUIRES
Yarn - approx 20g DK per pocket, 20g DK for top edging on hanger, 100g for edging on throwover
Hook / Needles - 3.5mm
Sundries - buttons, badges, motifs etc for decorating pockets; dowelling, over door hanger (optional)
INSTRUCTIONS (Given in UK notation)
You can use these pockets as a hanger. For this you will also need a length of dowelling at least as wide as your finished hanger and something like an over-door hanger or other hooks. Or it can be a throw for a bed or chair, in which case you will need extra yarn for the edging.
To make the pockets, take any colour of DK and make 55 chain. Dc into second chain from hook, dc to end (54 stitches). Turn. Work 18 rows of dc on this foundation. Fold pocket in half and work dc evenly through the row ends of both sides and thus creating a side seam. Work through both sides in dc along the bottom edge, then work up the opposite side so it has a seam to match the first side. You can make any number of pockets but I would recommend four to a row, and six rows if you intend to hang it up; once the toys are tucked into their pockets, it will weigh quite a lot and you will find it may stretch or even break.
Joining pockets: to join two pockets, do not fasten off when you have completed the seam on the second pocket but put the side edge you have just completed against the side edge of the previous pocket, making sure the opening is at the top. Dc the two pocket sides together (there should be a ridge at the back of the pockets). If you are working the first row, fasten off. If not, continue to dc along the bottom edge of the pocket just made, linking it to the top back edge of the pocket below. You may find it helps to put something in the lower pocket as you work to ensure you do not accidentally crochet it shut; I used a rolled up pair of socks. Fasten off when you have joined these two edges and sew in the ends as you go. Decorate each pocket if desired as you complete them.
Top edge (hanger): dc along the top back edge of the final row of pockets, making sure you have an even number of stitches, and keeping a note of this number. You can use any colour for this - I used one that had not been used for any of the pockets, but you could if you have enough yarn simply carry on with the colour of the last completed pocket. Work at least six rows of dc depending how many pockets you have to support (I made 10 rows). To make the support loops, turn and dc 5. On these five stitches work as many rows as there are in your top edging band. You can either fasten off, leaving a long tail, or if the last row brings you to the opposite side as the unworked top edge stitches, slipstitch the bottom of the loop to the back of the second row of the top edge, then slipstitch up the side of the loop and dc along the top edge to make a gap, then work another loop row. As long as you space your loops evenly and make sure there is a loop at each end of the edge, there is no strict rule for how many you need or how wide the gaps should be; I had 116 stitches along the top edge, and ended up with 12 loops and ten spaces in between. Slide your dowelling rod into these loops and hang it over your hooks making sure the hooks go into the gaps and not through your stitching.
Edging (throw): dc evenly around all four edges of the complete pockets, working three dc into each corner stitch. On the next row work three trebles into each dc (five into the centre of the three corner dc) to create a ruffled effect.
I haven't posted in a while, I've been very busy with other things including making catnip mice for the Cats Protection charity. They want mice to give to rescue kitties, helping to comfort them and to take to new homes so they have something familiar. They also want blankets 3' by 3', which I'm working on. Lauren O’Farrell (www.whodunnknit.com) provided the inspiration with her Captain Cat-Battler knitting pattern (copyright Lauren O’Farrell) which can be found on the Cats Protection charity website at www.cats.org.uk; as I prefer crochet I worked up this version of my own.
REQUIRES
Yarn - about 10 - 20 g DK for the body depending whether you are making a single colour or striped; small amount of contrast for ears, nose and tail. Small amount of black if you wish to embroider the eye and patch
Hook / Needles - 3.5 mm
Sundries - toy stuffing, catnip, black fabric paint (optional)
INSTRUCTIONS (Given in UK notation)
BODY
Make a magic ring and work 6dc into it. Do not join rounds. Round 1; increase in every stitch. 12 stitches. Round 2; (dc 1, inc 1) to end. 18 stitches. Rd 3; (dc 2, inc 1) to end. 24 stitches. Rd 4; dc. Rd 5; (dc 6, decrease 1). 21 stitches. Rd 6 and each even numbered round to end; dc. Rd 7; (dc 5, dec 1) to end. 18 stitches. Rd 9; (dc 4, dec 1) to end. 15 stitches. Rd 11; (dc3, dec 1) to end. 12 stitches. Stuff the mouse now, wrapping catnip in the stuffing so it is less likely to come out (if necessary you can make a tiny bag using a piece cut from a pair of cheap tights or a popsock and glue or sew the catnip inside that, inserting it into the centre of the stuffing). Rd 13; (dc 2, dec 1) to end. 9 stitches. Rd 15; (dc 1, dec 1) to end. 6 stitches. Poke a bit of stuffing inside the last few rows now. Rd 17; dec in each stitch and fasten off, sewing in ends and ensuring the nose end is closed up.
EARS (make 2)
With a contrast colour, make magic ring and work 6 dc into it. Work another round of dc on these 6 stitches. It will curl in, but that is as it should be. Fasten off leaving a tail and stitch to the mouse’s head.
TAIL
With the contrast colour and making sure you leave a long end of yarn before your first chain, make 9 - 10 chain, then fasten off leaving a long tail (you should have a long end at each end of your tail). Thread the tail into a long needle and pass it through the body from the centre of the bottom to the nose tip, drawing the chain up so it is flush against your mouse’s bottom. Embroider the nose with the end you just pulled through, thus securing the tail as well. Now use the long starting end and stitch into the second or third chain from the start. Keep stitching into the little node just formed till you have a little ball. Fasten off.
EYE AND PATCH
I used non-toxic black fabric paint to add these, as there is less chance of the kitty pulling that loose. But you may prefer to embroider them using a scrap of black yarn. If you want to use felt or ribbon for the patch, make sure you secure them well, and don’t go for anything stuck on with glue as the cat will very likely chew this and drool on it, so even the toughest glue will give way.
This pattern is copyright of Melanie Smallman.
As a fan of the casual game Chuzzle, I was inspired by a new yarn which I found at my local hobby store - King Cole Tinsel. This is perfect for a sparkly Christmas Chuzzle, but any dense eyelash yarn should work. Chuzzles are really simple creatures, so the pattern is really simple too. Remember all instructions are in UK notation, so for US users read sc instead of dc.
You will need about 20 grams of King Cole Tinsel DK yarn, toy stuffing, and a pair of googly safety toy eyes. I used a 3 mm hook, but whatever makes a close fabric for you is fine.
Start by making a magic ring or chain 2. Work 6 dc into the ring or the second chain. Do not join rounds, but do be careful to mark the beginning of rounds as the yarn makes it hard to see where you are. On the next round increase into every stitch; then increase 6 stitches evenly on each round till you have 36 (so on the next round you would dc 1, inc 1 all round, then on the next dc 2, inc 1, and so on). Work 3 rounds of straight dc, then decrease by six evenly on each round till you have 12 stitches left. Place your toy eyes now, and stuff the toy. Now decrease on every stitch till you can close up the hole. Fasten off, sew in the ends making sure you have closed the opening, and there you have it!
This baby layette set was inspired by a pattern I found for a popcorn stitch baby afghan. I used the stitch to create this jacket, hat and matching tote bag in lemon and white. If you want to make the blanket too the pattern is in the book 'Donna Kooler's Crocheted Afghans', from Sterling Publishing Co. The pattern creator is Carol Carlile (in the book it is titled "Pink Square Afghan").
POPCORN STITCH
The popcorn effect is created by making 4 chain which 'pops out' between dc. On all rows, you work your dc stitches only into the dc of previous row, ignoring the 4 chain 'popcorns', and making sure you push the popcorn through to the right side of the work. If your chains are loose you may want to pull them a little tighter or work ch 3 instead of ch 4 so the popcorns look neat.
JACKET
Worked in Baby DK on 3.25 and 4mm crochet hooks; requires 100g lemon, 100g white (or any two other complementary colours). Also requires 4 buttons. Finished size 9" (23 cm) chest.
LEFT FRONT
Using colour A and 4 mm hook, make 21 chain.
Base row: working 1st dc into 3rd chain from hook, dc to end. Work 2 rows straight dc.
Pattern row 1: 1ch, 1 dc into next dc. (4 chain, 2dc into next 2 stitches) to end of row.
Pattern row 2: dc into dc only to end.
*Pattern row 3: 1 ch, I dc into each of next 9 stitches, 4 ch, dc to end.
Pattern row 4: dc into dc only to end.
Repeat pattern rows 3 and 4 three times, then rows 1 and 2 once.** Change to colour B and repeat from * to ** until work measures 13 cm, ending with a wrong side row, and changing colours after each repeat of rows 1 and 2; maintain colour sequence throughout all shaping.
First armhole row: 1 ch, dc2tog, 1dc, (4ch, 2dc) to end.
Second armhole row: 1 ch, dc to last 3 stitches, dc2tog, 1 dc.
Third armhole row: 1ch, dc2tog, 4 dc, 4 ch, dc to end.
Next row; dc to end.
Continue with pattern, working four single popcorns between each full row of popcorns until armhole measures 6cm.
Neck row 1: 1 ch, pattern to last 3 dc, turn.
Neck row 2: 1 ch, dc2tog, pattern to end.
Neck row 3: 1 ch, pattern to last 3 dc, dc2tog, I dc.
Neck row 4: 1 ch, dc2tog, pattern to end.
Neck row 5: 1ch, pattern to last 3 dc, dc2tog, 1dc.
Continue in pattern without shaping till armhole measures 11 cm, ending on a wrong side row. Fasten off.
RIGHT FRONT
Using A and 4 mm hook, make 21 chain.
Base row: working 1st dc into 3rd chain from hook, dc to end.
Next row; dc to end.
Buttonhole row: 1 ch, dc to last 3 dc. Ch 2, miss 2dc, 1dc.
Next row; work pattern row 1 as for left front, working 2 dc into 2 ch space. Continue with pattern and colour changes as set for left front, inserting 2 ch space buttonhole on every fourth repeat of row 3 until work measures 13 cm.
Armhole row 1: work pattern to last 3dc, dc2tog, 1 dc.
Armhole row 2: 1 ch, dc2tog, pattern to end.
Armhole row 3: 1 ch, pattern to last 3 dc, dc2tog, 1 dc.
Continue without shaping until armhole measures 6 cm.
Neck row 1: ss to last 12 dc, 1 ch, pattern to end.
Neck row 2: 1 ch, pattern to last 3 dc, dc2tog, 1 dc.
Neck row 3: 1 ch, dc2tog, pattern to end.
Neck row 4: 1 ch, pattern to last 3 dc, dc2tog, 1dc.
Continue without shaping until armhole measures 11 cm. Fasten off.
BACK
Using A and 4 mm hook, make 37 chain.
Base row: working first dc into 3rd chain from hook, dc to end.
Work two rows dc.
Pattern row 1: 1ch, 1dc, (4ch, 2 dc) to end.
Pattern row 2: dc to end.
*Pattern row 3: ch 1, dc 11, ch 4, dc 12, ch 4, dc to end.
Pattern row 4: dc to end.
Repeat rows 3 and 4 three times, then rows 1 and 2. **
Repeat from * to ** , changing colours after each repeat, until work measures 13 cm.
Armhole shaping: decrease 1 stitch at each end of next 3 rows. Continue without shaping till armhole measures 11 cm, ending with wrong side row. Fasten off.
SLEEVES (Make 2)
Using A and 4 mm hook, make 27 chain. Working first dc into 3rd chain from hook, work 2 rows dc.
Row 3: dc, increasing 1 stitch at each end.
Row 4: 1 ch, 1 dc, (4 ch, 2 dc) to end.
Row 5: dc to end.
Row 6: 1 ch, increase 1 stitch, dc 8, 4 ch, 12 dc, 4 ch, dc to last stitch, increase 1.
Row 7: dc to end.
Repeat rows 6 and 7 three times, then rows 4 and 5 once, increasing one stitch at each end of every third row and incorporating into pattern. Change to B and continue with pattern as set, increasing every 3rd row until you have 36 stitches, then without shaping till work measures 15 cm.
Shape top: decrease 1 stitch at each end of next 3 rows, making sure you end with a wrong side row. Fasten off.
COLLAR
Using A and 4 mm hook, make 51 chain. Working first stitch into 3rd chain from hook, work 2 rows dc.
Next row: 1 ch, 1 dc, (4 ch, 2 dc) to end.
Continue in dc till work measures 6 cm. Fasten off.
Join shoulder seams. Stitch collar in place, making sure the popcorn row will be facing outwards. Sew sleeves in place and join side and sleeve seams. Using B and 3.25 mm hook, reattach yarn to bottom corner of right front and work crab stitch around the bottom of the garment, up the left front, around the collar edge and down the right front to your starting point. Fasten off. Using B and 3.25 mm hook, work crab stitch around the bottom of each sleeve. Sew buttons on left front to match buttonhole placements on right front.
HAT
Worked in baby DK on 3.50mm and 3.25 mm hooks. Takes about 50g white, 50g lemon.
Using A, make 63 chain.
Base row: 1 dc in second chain from hook, dc to end.
Work 1 row dc.
Pattern row 1: (2 dc, 4 ch) to end.
Pattern row 2: dc.
Pattern row 3: 1 ch, 5 dc, 4 ch, 10 dc, 4 ch to last six stitches, 6 dc.
Pattern row 4: dc to end.
Repeat rows 3 and 4 twice, then rows 1 and 2. Change to B. Continue in pattern till work measures 9cm ending with a right side row.
Decrease row: 1 ch, dc2tog to last stitch, 1 dc.
Next row: 1 ch, 2dc, 4ch, (5 dc, 4ch) to end.
Repeat decrease row.
Next row: 1 ch, 2 dc, (4ch, 3 dc, 4 ch, 2 dc) to end.
Next row; 1 ch, dc2tog to end.
Work 1 row dc.
Next row: dc2tog to end. Fasten off leaving long end. Using a needle work end through last row and draw tight, stitching to secure.
Using B and 3.25 mm hook, work a row of crab stitch around brim.
Using both colours, make small pompom and secure to crown.
TOTE BAG
Worked in baby DK on 3.50 mm hook throughout. Amount requires depends on size of bag you make.
Using A, make 4 ch, ss to form a ring.
First round: ch 3, 11 tr in ring, ss to top of 3 ch.
Second round: ch 3, 1 tr in next stitch, 2 tr in each stitch to end, ss to top of 3 ch.
Third round: ch 3, *2 tr in next stitch, I tr in next stitch, repeat from * to end.
Continue in trebles, adding I stitch between each increasing stitch until base reaches size desired. Change colour after each four rounds. Be sure you finish with an even number of stitches.
Next row: 2 ch, work 1 dc into the back of every stitch to end, ss to top of chain. Work rows in dc until you reach the next colour change, ending with a wrong side row.
Pattern row 1: 2 ch, 1 dc, (4ch, 2 dc) to end, ss to top of ch. TURN.
Pattern row 2: 2 ch, dc to end, ss to top of ch. TURN.
Pattern row 3: this will vary depending on how large a base you made. Work in dc interspersing 4 ch popcorns at
Regular intervals (mine came out at 20 dc between popcorns). TURN.
Pattern row 4: 2 ch, dc to end.
Repeat rows 3 and 4 three times, then rows 1 and 2. Change colour.
Continue in pattern, turning at the end of each row, till bag is the size you desire, ending on a right side row. Do NOT turn at the end of this and all following rows.
Next row (drawstring row): 2 ch, 1 dc into next 2 stitches, (2ch, miss 2 dc, 3 dc) to end.
Next row: ch into first space. Ch 3, (2tr, 1 ch, 3 tr) into space. Work (3 tr, 1 ch, 3 tr) into each space to end, ss to top of 3 ch. Fasten off.
Using A and B together, make a drawstring long enough to close your bag ( a rough guide is to make the length the diameter of your base times two or three). Leave a long tail of wool at each end of the string, and sew through the last few chain to make a simple bobble; or alternatively, make two very small pompoms and sew one to each cord end. Thread through the spaces on the drawstring row and secure to bag with a couple of stitches through the cord at the centre back.
[In reply to a question, the gauge is roughly 20 stitches and 10 rows to create a 10cm square.]
[In response to another comment, and thanks to Marcia for pointing out the problem, I have altered the start of the pattern to make it clearer how the popcorns are formed.]
