If, like me, you remember the old animated series 'The Trap Door', you may like my pattern for a cuddly toy version of Berk, who was one of my childhood heroes. I also did a pattern for Boney but that will come later (I hope!).
Requirements: 50 g blue dk, about 25 g white, small amount of black, plastic canvas. 3.5 hook.
BODY: using blue make magic ring and work 6 dc into it. Round 1: inc in every dc. 12 stitches. Rd 2: {1 dc, inc}, repeat to end. 18 stitches. Rd 3: {inc, 2 dc} to last 4 dc, dc to end. 24 stitches. Rd 4: dc, inc, {3 dc, inc} to last 2 dc, dc to end. 30 stitches. Rd 5 - 7: dc to end. Rd 8: {4 dc, dec} to end. 25 stitches. Rds 9 - 19: dc to end. Rd 11: 1 dc, dec, {3 dc, dec} to last 2 dc, dc to end. 20 stitches. Rds 12 - 14: dc to end. Rd 15: {dec, dc 2} to end. 15 stitches. Rd 16: {2 dc, dec} to end. 12 stitches. Stuff body to this point. Rd 17: {dc, dec} to end. 8 stitches. Fasten off leaving long tail. Stuff body right to top opening. Using yarn needle and long tail, run yarn through top 8 dc, draw up tightly and fasten off.
FEET (Make 2): using blue, make a magic ring and work 4 dc into it, making sure you leave a long tail. Round 1: inc in every stitch (8). Rd 2: dc 3, inc in next 2 dc, 3 dc. (10). Rd 3: dc 4, inc in next 2 dc, dc 4. (12). Rd 4: working in back loops only, dc all round. Insert plastic canvas cut to size of sole and anchor using the long tail you began with. Rds 5 - 6: dc to end. Rd 7: ss across next 3 dc, dc 1, dec 2, dc 1, ss across last 3 dc. (10). Stuff the foot now. Rd 8: ss across 3 dc, dec 2, ss to end and into first stitch of round. Fasten off and attach to body.
ARMS (Make 2): using blue, make 2 chain. Into second chain from hook work 4 dc. Rd 1: dc into every stitch (4). Rd 2: dc 1, inc, repeat. (6). Rds 3 - 5: dc in every stitch. Stuff upper arm lightly. Rd 6: dc 1, inc 2, dc 2. (9). At this point the left and right hands are formed. LEFT Hand: dc 3, turn. Work 2 rows dc onto these 3 stitches. On last row ss from 3rd to 1st dc. Now work 3 dc down the side of the thumb, joining row ends together. Work 2 rows of straight dc on 6 remaining stitches, turning at each row end. Now dc 2, turn, and work 3 rows of dc on just these two stitches. Turn sideways and work 3 dc down sides, joining row ends to make tube. Slipstitch from the base of this finger to the base of the thumb. Work the 2nd and 3rd fingers as the first, except that the second finger slipstitches from the base of that to the first finger, and the third to the second. Fasten off leaving tail. Stuff hand lightly and close up gap with tail. Attach to left side of body. RIGHT hand: work as for left except that on completion of the thumb, slipstitch across to the opposite side of the thumb, so you begin the first finger alongside the thumb. When you complete the first finger ss not to the thumb but to the unused dc next to it, and from the base of the third finger to the thumb base. Fasten off and stuff as for left, close up and attach to body.
EYES (Make 2). Using white make magic ring and work 6 dc into it. Rd 1: inc in every stitch (12). Rd 2: dec in every stitch (6). Fasten off leaving long tail. Thread through 6 dc and pull up tight and fasten off. Embroider pupil using black. Attach to top of head.
MOUTH: embroider with black.
I created this pattern some time ago, based on a Japanese pattern authorised by Sanrio but with substantial changes to make it easier for European crocheters, and more traditionally English in costume style. If you do make it be aware that I do not hold any copyrights regarding Hello Kitty or Dear Daniel, and that it may be an offence to sell toys produced from this pattern.
Requires: approx 300 g white, 100g light grey, 50g lilac DK yarn. Small scrap black yarn. Toy eyes and noses, unless you prefer to embroider them (in which case, more black yarn and small amount yellow). 3.5 hook. Toy stuffing. The pieces up to the point where I mark off for Bride and Groom are common to both toys, so make 2 heads, 4 ears etc.
HEAD
Using white, make 8 chain. Work first round on both sides of chain. Rd 1; dc into next 7 chain, 3 dc into next chain. Dc into next 6 stitches, 2 dc into next. 18. From now until rd 8, join all rds. Rd2; (inc, dc 7, inc) to end. 24. Rd 3; (inc, dc 7, inc, dc, inc, dc) to end. 30. Rd 4; (inc, dc 8, inc, dc 2, inc, dc 2) to end. 36. Rd 5; (inc, dc 9, inc, dc 3, inc, dc 3) to end. 42. Rd 6; (inc, dc 10, inc, dc 4, inc, dc 4) to end. 48. Rd 7; (inc, dc 11, inc, dc 5, inc, dc 5) to end. 54. Rd 8 - 13; dc all round, do not join. Rd 14; (dec, dc 11, dec, dc 5, dec, dc 5) to end, join. 48. Rd 15; dc all round, do not join. Rd 16; (dec, dc 10, dec, dc 4, dec, dc 4) to end, join. 42. Rd 17; dc all round, do not join. Rd 18; (dec, dc 9, dec, dc 3, dec, dc 3) to end, join. 36. Rd 19; (dec, dc 8, dec, dc 2, dec, dc 2) to end, join. 30. Rd 20; (dec, dc 7, dec, dc, dec, dc) to end, join. 24. Rd 21; (dec, dc 4) to end, join. 20. Fasten off. If using toy eyes insert now. Position eyes on about 7 rows up and 7 stitches in from side - should be about 9 stitches between. Position nose between eyes about 5 rows up. Stuff head. Stitch 3 whiskers each side using black starting just above eye.
EARS (make 2)
Using white make magic ring. Rd 1; work 6 dc into ring, do not join. Rd 2; (inc, dc) to end. From now on join all rows. 9. Rd 3; (inc, dc 2) to end. 12. Rd 4; (inc, dc 3) to end. 15. Rd 5; (inc, dc 4) to end. 18. Rd 6; (inc, dc 5) to end. 21. Fasten off, stuff and stitch to head.
HANDS (make 2)
Using white make magic ring. Rd 1; 6 dc into ring, do not join. Rd 2; inc to end. Join. 12. Rd 3; (inc, dc) to end. Join. 18. Rd 4; dc to end. Rd 5; (dec, dc 4) to end, join. 15. Rd 6; dc to end. Rd 7; (dec, dc 3) to end, join. 12. Rd 8 - 11; dc to end. Rd 12; (dec, dc 2) to end, join. 9. Rd 13; (dec, dc) to end, join. 6. Fasten off. Stuff and stitch to body when completed.
TAIL
Using white make magic ring. Rd 1; 6 dc into ring, do not join. Rd 2; inc to end, join. 12. Rd 3 - 4; dc to end. Fasten off. Stuff and stitch to body when complete.
BOW TIES
Using lilac, make 8 chain (+ 1). Turn. Work 4 rows dc. Fasten off. Now make 4 chain (+ 1). Work 2 rows dc. Fasten off. Wrap smaller strip around centre of larger one, pulling tight to create bow effect, stitch base to secure..
SMALL FLOWERS
Make in white for Kitty’s neck bow and in lilac for Daniel’s buttonhole. Make 9 chain. Work 2 half trebles into second chain, ss into next 2 ch, 2 htr into next, repeat to end and fasten off leaving tail. Now roll up this strip so it forms the flower, stitching into place tightly using the tail.
BRIDE PIECES
BODY
Using white, make magic ring. Rd 1; 6 dc into ring. Join all increase and decrease rounds from now on. Rd 2; inc o end. 12. Rd 3; (inc, dc) to end. 18. Rd 4; (inc, dc 2) to end. 24. Rd 5; (inc, dc 3) to end. 30. Rd 6; (inc, dc 4) to end. 36. Rd 7; (inc, dc 5) to end. 42. Rd 8; (inc, dc 6) to end. 48. Rd 9 - 11; dc to end. Rd 12; (dec, dc 6) to end. 42. Rd 13; dc to end. Rd 14; (dec, dc 5) to end. 36. Rd 15; dc to end. Rd 16; (dec, dc 4) to end. 30. Rd 17; dc to end. Rd 18; (dec, dc 4) to end. 25. Rd 19; dc to end. Rd 20; (dec, dc 3) to end. 20. Rd 21; dc to end. Fasten off. Rejoin yarn to row 14 and work through stitches of that row. Rd 1; dc to end. 36. Rd 2; (inc, dc 5) to end. 42. Rd 3; (inc, dc 6) to end. 48. Rd 4; (inc, dc 7) to end. 54. Rd 5; (inc, dc 8) to end. 60. Rd 6; (inc, dc 9) to end. 66. Rd 7; dc. Rd 8; (inc, dc 10) to end. 72. Rd 9; dc. Rd 10; (inc, dc 11) to end. 78. Rd 11; dc. Rd 12; (inc, dc 12) to end. 84. Change to lilac. Rd 13 - 15; dc. Change back to white. Rd 16; dc. Rd 17; (inc, dc 3) to end. 105. Rd 18; dc. Rd 19; (inc, dc 4) to end. 126. Rd 20; (dc, work 1 htr and 1 treble into next stitch, 2 dtr into next, 1 tr + 1 htr into next, dc, ss into next) repeat to end. 21 repeats, 189 stitches. Fasten off. Stitch head, hands and legs to body when completed.
FEET (Make 2)
Using white make 6 chain. Work around both sides of chain. Rd 1; dc into next 4 chain, 3 dc into next chain, dc 3, 2 dc into next chain. 12. Rd 2; (inc, dc 3, inc) to end, join. 18. Rd 3 - 11; dc. Fasten off. Stuff and stitch to body.
MEDIUM FLOWERS
Use for bouquet and flower on Kitty’s head bow. Using lilac make 11 chain (+ 1). Work ( 2 htr into next chain, ss into next, 2) to end. Fasten off leaving tail. Roll around as for small flowers and secure.
LARGE FLOWERS (make 3)
For Kitty’s dress. Using lilac make 15 ch (+ 1). Work as for medium flowers, but work 2 ss between htrs. Roll up and secure as before, stitch to front of dress above lilac band.
BOUQUET BASE
For the frill around the bouquet. Using white, make magic ring. Rd 1; work 6 dc into ring. Rd 2; inc to end, join. 12. Rd 3; (ss into next stitch, ch 4) to end. Fasten off. Now stitch 3 lilac medium flowers into centre of bouquet and sew bouquet to hands.
NECK FRILL
Using white make 22 chain (+ 1). Row 1; dc to end. 22. Row 2; ch 3, tr2 into next stitch, (3 tr in next). Repeat ()to end. 66. Row 3; ch 3, tr in next stitch, (2 tr in next stitch) to end. 132. Fasten off. Stitch in place around neck. Sew neck bow in place on front, having secured flower to centre strip on bow first.
HEAD BOW
Using lilac make 12 chain (+ 1). Work 6 rows dc onto these chain, fasten off. Now using lilac make 9 chain (+ 1). Dc into each to end. Fasten off. Wind narrow strip round centre of wider on to form bow and secure. Stitch white medium flower to this strip. Sew bow to head next to left ear. Your bride is now complete.
GROOM PIECES
FEET (Make 2)
Using white make 6 chain + 1. Work around both sides of chain. Rd 1; dc 5, 3 dc in next stitch, dc 4, 2 dc in next st. 14. Rd 2; (inc, dc 4, inc 2) to end, join. 20. Rd 3; (inc, dc 5, inc, dc, inc, dc) to end, join. 26. Rd 4; (dec, dc 2, dec) to end, join. 20. Rd 5; (dec, dc 8) to end. 18. Rd 6 - 7; dc to end. Change to grey. Rd 8 - 15; dc to end. Fasten off. Stuff feet and join together at top with 2 stitches; your legs should be open tubes linked at the ‘groin’.
BODY.
Rejoin grey to legs and work 36 dc all round top of both legs to form first row of body. Rd 1 - 7; dc. Change to white. Rd 8; (dec, dc 7) to end, join. 32. Rd 9; dc. Rd 10; (dec, dc 6) to end, join. 26. Rd 11; dc to end. Rd 12; (dec, dc 5) to end, join. 20. Rd 13; dc to end. Fasten off. Attach head, tail, bowtie and arms to body.
VEST (Make 2)
Using lilac make 2 chain + 1. Row 1; dc in next 2 chain, ch1, turn. 2. Rd 2; inc, dc 1, ch 1, turn. 3. Continue increase at beginning of each row till you have 9 stitches. Work 3 rows dc. Next row; dec, dc 1, dec, turn. 3. Next row; dec, dc 1, turn. 2. Last row; dec. Fasten off. Stitch in place on front of body so one piece slightly overlaps the other. Work ‘buttons’ by stitching with white yarn.
JACKET
Using grey, make 11 chain + 1. Back. Row 1; dc to end. 11. Turn. Row 2 - 4; dc to end. Row 5; inc, dc 9, inc, ch 4, turn. 13 + 4. Row 6; work dc into 2nd chain and next 2 chain, dc to end, ch 4, turn. 16 + 4. Row 7; dc into 2nd chain, dc into next 2 chain and each dc to end. Ch 1, turn. 19. Rows 8 - 15; dc. Fasten off. Right front. Rejoin yarn to beginning of this piece with right side facing and work 3 dc, ch 1, turn. 3. Row 2 - 3; dc 3, ch 1, turn. Row 4; inc, dc 2, ch 1, turn. 4. Row 5; dc 3, inc, ch 1, turn. 5. Row 6; inc, dc 4, ch 1, turn. 6. Row 7; dc to end, ch 1, turn. Row 8; inc 1, dc 4, inc into next stitch, ch 1, turn. 8. Row 9 - 15; dc. SS side seam together from bottom to row 6 of back. Fasten off. Left front. Reattach to beginning of back piece on opposite side to right front and work as given for right front, reversing shapings. Fasten side seam as before. Sleeves (make 2). Using lilac make 21 chain, join. Rd 1; work 21 dc into chain. Change to grey. Rd 2; dc 12, dec 2, dc 3, dec. 18. Rd 3; dc 14, dec 2. 16. Rd 4; dc 14, dec. 15. Rd 5; dc to end. SS into place on main jacket. Lapels. Starting 4 rows up, attach grey to right front and work dc evenly up front, round neck and down left front to 4 rows up on that side. Turn. Work 2 rows dc. Fasten off. Fold out lapels so they lie flat. Reattach lilac to bottom edge of jacket and work dc up front edge, across bottom of lapel and up the side till you are about 4 stitches up from the start of the lapel. Now dc across 3 stitches together so you create a v shape in lapel. Work dc along rest of lapel and round neck till you reach the point opposite your v, and work another decrease over 3 here to match you first. Continue to bottom edge and fasten off. Sew buttonhole to jacket.
TOP HAT
Using grey make magic ring. Rd 1; work 6 dc into ring. Rd 2; inc in each. 12. Rd 3; (inc, dc 1) to end. 18. Rd 4; (inc, dc 2) to end. 24. Rd 5; working into back loops only, dc all round. Rd 6; dc to end. Rd 7; (dec, dc 2). 18. Rd 8; dc. Rd 9; (dec, dc 1) to end. 12. Rd 10; dc to end. Rd 11; dec all round. 6. Rd 12; inc, dc 1, inc 2, dc 1, inc. Join. 10. Rd 13; inc, dc 3, inc 2, dc 3, inc. 14. Join. Rd 14; inc, dc 5, inc 2, dc 5, inc. 19. Join, Fasten off. Stuff tube of hat. Using lilac make 18 ch. Work 1 row dc, fasten off. Stitch band in place round hat and sew in place. Your groom is now finished.
Just a note in memory of all the victims of World War II; we must never forget, nor allow the terrible truth behind the battles to be re-written for modern political expediency, or history may well repeat itself. And a toast to all the heroes who helped defeat the Nazis and their Axis allies: to the soldiers and the sailors and the airmen; to the resistance fighters and the intelligence agents; to the underground networks who helped people to freedom; to the civilians who kept the supplies flowing and the farms growing, fought the fires and cleared the rubble, tended the injured and buried the dead. Here's to all of you, and especially to those whose roles are being downgraded or even forgotten in the name of politics. A toast to you, and as for those whose roles are being sanitised and concealed - Hitler's heirs will not succeed. The guilty will never be washed clean of their guilt, and the true heroes will not be smeared with shame.
"The world has never seen greater devotion, determination and self-sacrifice than have been displayed by the Russian people... With a nation that in saving itself is thereby helping to save all the world from the Nazi menace, this country of ours should always be glad to be a good neighbor and a sincere friend..." US President Franklin Delano Roosevelt, July 28th, 1943
My daughter has a huge collection of cuddly toys and very limited space in her room so I created this patchwork hanger to house some of them and use up oddments of yarn. It was designed so a length of dowelling can be inserted in the top and it can be hung from an over-door hanger; but you could substitute a spring-loaded curtain rod of suitable length and hang it in an alcove or wardrobe. or miss off the hanger and add a simple edging to make it into a throw for a small bed or chair. I decorated each pocket with things I had around - crochet flowers made from yarn scraps, sew-on motifs, badges and beads and buttons. You can personalise it for your child with a colour or decor scheme, or by sewing on their name in felt letters.
REQUIRES
Yarn - approx 20g DK per pocket, 20g DK for top edging on hanger, 100g for edging on throwover
Hook / Needles - 3.5mm
Sundries - buttons, badges, motifs etc for decorating pockets; dowelling, over door hanger (optional)
INSTRUCTIONS (Given in UK notation)
You can use these pockets as a hanger. For this you will also need a length of dowelling at least as wide as your finished hanger and something like an over-door hanger or other hooks. Or it can be a throw for a bed or chair, in which case you will need extra yarn for the edging.
To make the pockets, take any colour of DK and make 55 chain. Dc into second chain from hook, dc to end (54 stitches). Turn. Work 18 rows of dc on this foundation. Fold pocket in half and work dc evenly through the row ends of both sides and thus creating a side seam. Work through both sides in dc along the bottom edge, then work up the opposite side so it has a seam to match the first side. You can make any number of pockets but I would recommend four to a row, and six rows if you intend to hang it up; once the toys are tucked into their pockets, it will weigh quite a lot and you will find it may stretch or even break.
Joining pockets: to join two pockets, do not fasten off when you have completed the seam on the second pocket but put the side edge you have just completed against the side edge of the previous pocket, making sure the opening is at the top. Dc the two pocket sides together (there should be a ridge at the back of the pockets). If you are working the first row, fasten off. If not, continue to dc along the bottom edge of the pocket just made, linking it to the top back edge of the pocket below. You may find it helps to put something in the lower pocket as you work to ensure you do not accidentally crochet it shut; I used a rolled up pair of socks. Fasten off when you have joined these two edges and sew in the ends as you go. Decorate each pocket if desired as you complete them.
Top edge (hanger): dc along the top back edge of the final row of pockets, making sure you have an even number of stitches, and keeping a note of this number. You can use any colour for this - I used one that had not been used for any of the pockets, but you could if you have enough yarn simply carry on with the colour of the last completed pocket. Work at least six rows of dc depending how many pockets you have to support (I made 10 rows). To make the support loops, turn and dc 5. On these five stitches work as many rows as there are in your top edging band. You can either fasten off, leaving a long tail, or if the last row brings you to the opposite side as the unworked top edge stitches, slipstitch the bottom of the loop to the back of the second row of the top edge, then slipstitch up the side of the loop and dc along the top edge to make a gap, then work another loop row. As long as you space your loops evenly and make sure there is a loop at each end of the edge, there is no strict rule for how many you need or how wide the gaps should be; I had 116 stitches along the top edge, and ended up with 12 loops and ten spaces in between. Slide your dowelling rod into these loops and hang it over your hooks making sure the hooks go into the gaps and not through your stitching.
Edging (throw): dc evenly around all four edges of the complete pockets, working three dc into each corner stitch. On the next row work three trebles into each dc (five into the centre of the three corner dc) to create a ruffled effect.
I haven't posted anything in a long time, largely because of serious family crises, but I have resolved to start again and post up at least once a week. This seemed an auspicious day to start, so a Happy St George's Day to all!
I haven't posted in a while, I've been very busy with other things including making catnip mice for the Cats Protection charity. They want mice to give to rescue kitties, helping to comfort them and to take to new homes so they have something familiar. They also want blankets 3' by 3', which I'm working on. Lauren O’Farrell (www.whodunnknit.com) provided the inspiration with her Captain Cat-Battler knitting pattern (copyright Lauren O’Farrell) which can be found on the Cats Protection charity website at www.cats.org.uk; as I prefer crochet I worked up this version of my own.
REQUIRES
Yarn - about 10 - 20 g DK for the body depending whether you are making a single colour or striped; small amount of contrast for ears, nose and tail. Small amount of black if you wish to embroider the eye and patch
Hook / Needles - 3.5 mm
Sundries - toy stuffing, catnip, black fabric paint (optional)
INSTRUCTIONS (Given in UK notation)
BODY
Make a magic ring and work 6dc into it. Do not join rounds. Round 1; increase in every stitch. 12 stitches. Round 2; (dc 1, inc 1) to end. 18 stitches. Rd 3; (dc 2, inc 1) to end. 24 stitches. Rd 4; dc. Rd 5; (dc 6, decrease 1). 21 stitches. Rd 6 and each even numbered round to end; dc. Rd 7; (dc 5, dec 1) to end. 18 stitches. Rd 9; (dc 4, dec 1) to end. 15 stitches. Rd 11; (dc3, dec 1) to end. 12 stitches. Stuff the mouse now, wrapping catnip in the stuffing so it is less likely to come out (if necessary you can make a tiny bag using a piece cut from a pair of cheap tights or a popsock and glue or sew the catnip inside that, inserting it into the centre of the stuffing). Rd 13; (dc 2, dec 1) to end. 9 stitches. Rd 15; (dc 1, dec 1) to end. 6 stitches. Poke a bit of stuffing inside the last few rows now. Rd 17; dec in each stitch and fasten off, sewing in ends and ensuring the nose end is closed up.
EARS (make 2)
With a contrast colour, make magic ring and work 6 dc into it. Work another round of dc on these 6 stitches. It will curl in, but that is as it should be. Fasten off leaving a tail and stitch to the mouse’s head.
TAIL
With the contrast colour and making sure you leave a long end of yarn before your first chain, make 9 - 10 chain, then fasten off leaving a long tail (you should have a long end at each end of your tail). Thread the tail into a long needle and pass it through the body from the centre of the bottom to the nose tip, drawing the chain up so it is flush against your mouse’s bottom. Embroider the nose with the end you just pulled through, thus securing the tail as well. Now use the long starting end and stitch into the second or third chain from the start. Keep stitching into the little node just formed till you have a little ball. Fasten off.
EYE AND PATCH
I used non-toxic black fabric paint to add these, as there is less chance of the kitty pulling that loose. But you may prefer to embroider them using a scrap of black yarn. If you want to use felt or ribbon for the patch, make sure you secure them well, and don’t go for anything stuck on with glue as the cat will very likely chew this and drool on it, so even the toughest glue will give way.
This pattern is copyright of Melanie Smallman.
As a fan of the casual game Chuzzle, I was inspired by a new yarn which I found at my local hobby store - King Cole Tinsel. This is perfect for a sparkly Christmas Chuzzle, but any dense eyelash yarn should work. Chuzzles are really simple creatures, so the pattern is really simple too. Remember all instructions are in UK notation, so for US users read sc instead of dc.
You will need about 20 grams of King Cole Tinsel DK yarn, toy stuffing, and a pair of googly safety toy eyes. I used a 3 mm hook, but whatever makes a close fabric for you is fine.
Start by making a magic ring or chain 2. Work 6 dc into the ring or the second chain. Do not join rounds, but do be careful to mark the beginning of rounds as the yarn makes it hard to see where you are. On the next round increase into every stitch; then increase 6 stitches evenly on each round till you have 36 (so on the next round you would dc 1, inc 1 all round, then on the next dc 2, inc 1, and so on). Work 3 rounds of straight dc, then decrease by six evenly on each round till you have 12 stitches left. Place your toy eyes now, and stuff the toy. Now decrease on every stitch till you can close up the hole. Fasten off, sew in the ends making sure you have closed the opening, and there you have it!
