I haven't posted in a while, I've been very busy with other things including making catnip mice for the Cats Protection charity. They want mice to give to rescue kitties, helping to comfort them and to take to new homes so they have something familiar. They also want blankets 3' by 3', which I'm working on. Lauren O’Farrell (www.whodunnknit.com) provided the inspiration with her Captain Cat-Battler knitting pattern (copyright Lauren O’Farrell) which can be found on the Cats Protection charity website at www.cats.org.uk; as I prefer crochet I worked up this version of my own.
REQUIRES
Yarn - about 10 - 20 g DK for the body depending whether you are making a single colour or striped; small amount of contrast for ears, nose and tail. Small amount of black if you wish to embroider the eye and patch
Hook / Needles - 3.5 mm
Sundries - toy stuffing, catnip, black fabric paint (optional)
INSTRUCTIONS (Given in UK notation)
BODY
Make a magic ring and work 6dc into it. Do not join rounds. Round 1; increase in every stitch. 12 stitches. Round 2; (dc 1, inc 1) to end. 18 stitches. Rd 3; (dc 2, inc 1) to end. 24 stitches. Rd 4; dc. Rd 5; (dc 6, decrease 1). 21 stitches. Rd 6 and each even numbered round to end; dc. Rd 7; (dc 5, dec 1) to end. 18 stitches. Rd 9; (dc 4, dec 1) to end. 15 stitches. Rd 11; (dc3, dec 1) to end. 12 stitches. Stuff the mouse now, wrapping catnip in the stuffing so it is less likely to come out (if necessary you can make a tiny bag using a piece cut from a pair of cheap tights or a popsock and glue or sew the catnip inside that, inserting it into the centre of the stuffing). Rd 13; (dc 2, dec 1) to end. 9 stitches. Rd 15; (dc 1, dec 1) to end. 6 stitches. Poke a bit of stuffing inside the last few rows now. Rd 17; dec in each stitch and fasten off, sewing in ends and ensuring the nose end is closed up.
EARS (make 2)
With a contrast colour, make magic ring and work 6 dc into it. Work another round of dc on these 6 stitches. It will curl in, but that is as it should be. Fasten off leaving a tail and stitch to the mouse’s head.
TAIL
With the contrast colour and making sure you leave a long end of yarn before your first chain, make 9 - 10 chain, then fasten off leaving a long tail (you should have a long end at each end of your tail). Thread the tail into a long needle and pass it through the body from the centre of the bottom to the nose tip, drawing the chain up so it is flush against your mouse’s bottom. Embroider the nose with the end you just pulled through, thus securing the tail as well. Now use the long starting end and stitch into the second or third chain from the start. Keep stitching into the little node just formed till you have a little ball. Fasten off.
EYE AND PATCH
I used non-toxic black fabric paint to add these, as there is less chance of the kitty pulling that loose. But you may prefer to embroider them using a scrap of black yarn. If you want to use felt or ribbon for the patch, make sure you secure them well, and don’t go for anything stuck on with glue as the cat will very likely chew this and drool on it, so even the toughest glue will give way.
This pattern is copyright of Melanie Smallman.
As a fan of the casual game Chuzzle, I was inspired by a new yarn which I found at my local hobby store - King Cole Tinsel. This is perfect for a sparkly Christmas Chuzzle, but any dense eyelash yarn should work. Chuzzles are really simple creatures, so the pattern is really simple too. Remember all instructions are in UK notation, so for US users read sc instead of dc.
You will need about 20 grams of King Cole Tinsel DK yarn, toy stuffing, and a pair of googly safety toy eyes. I used a 3 mm hook, but whatever makes a close fabric for you is fine.
Start by making a magic ring or chain 2. Work 6 dc into the ring or the second chain. Do not join rounds, but do be careful to mark the beginning of rounds as the yarn makes it hard to see where you are. On the next round increase into every stitch; then increase 6 stitches evenly on each round till you have 36 (so on the next round you would dc 1, inc 1 all round, then on the next dc 2, inc 1, and so on). Work 3 rounds of straight dc, then decrease by six evenly on each round till you have 12 stitches left. Place your toy eyes now, and stuff the toy. Now decrease on every stitch till you can close up the hole. Fasten off, sew in the ends making sure you have closed the opening, and there you have it!
This baby layette set was inspired by a pattern I found for a popcorn stitch baby afghan. I used the stitch to create this jacket, hat and matching tote bag in lemon and white. If you want to make the blanket too the pattern is in the book 'Donna Kooler's Crocheted Afghans', from Sterling Publishing Co. The pattern creator is Carol Carlile (in the book it is titled "Pink Square Afghan").
POPCORN STITCH
The popcorn effect is created by making 4 chain which 'pops out' between dc. On all rows, you work your dc stitches only into the dc of previous row, ignoring the 4 chain 'popcorns', and making sure you push the popcorn through to the right side of the work. If your chains are loose you may want to pull them a little tighter or work ch 3 instead of ch 4 so the popcorns look neat.
JACKET
Worked in Baby DK on 3.25 and 4mm crochet hooks; requires 100g lemon, 100g white (or any two other complementary colours). Also requires 4 buttons. Finished size 9" (23 cm) chest.
LEFT FRONT
Using colour A and 4 mm hook, make 21 chain.
Base row: working 1st dc into 3rd chain from hook, dc to end. Work 2 rows straight dc.
Pattern row 1: 1ch, 1 dc into next dc. (4 chain, 2dc into next 2 stitches) to end of row.
Pattern row 2: dc into dc only to end.
*Pattern row 3: 1 ch, I dc into each of next 9 stitches, 4 ch, dc to end.
Pattern row 4: dc into dc only to end.
Repeat pattern rows 3 and 4 three times, then rows 1 and 2 once.** Change to colour B and repeat from * to ** until work measures 13 cm, ending with a wrong side row, and changing colours after each repeat of rows 1 and 2; maintain colour sequence throughout all shaping.
First armhole row: 1 ch, dc2tog, 1dc, (4ch, 2dc) to end.
Second armhole row: 1 ch, dc to last 3 stitches, dc2tog, 1 dc.
Third armhole row: 1ch, dc2tog, 4 dc, 4 ch, dc to end.
Next row; dc to end.
Continue with pattern, working four single popcorns between each full row of popcorns until armhole measures 6cm.
Neck row 1: 1 ch, pattern to last 3 dc, turn.
Neck row 2: 1 ch, dc2tog, pattern to end.
Neck row 3: 1 ch, pattern to last 3 dc, dc2tog, I dc.
Neck row 4: 1 ch, dc2tog, pattern to end.
Neck row 5: 1ch, pattern to last 3 dc, dc2tog, 1dc.
Continue in pattern without shaping till armhole measures 11 cm, ending on a wrong side row. Fasten off.
RIGHT FRONT
Using A and 4 mm hook, make 21 chain.
Base row: working 1st dc into 3rd chain from hook, dc to end.
Next row; dc to end.
Buttonhole row: 1 ch, dc to last 3 dc. Ch 2, miss 2dc, 1dc.
Next row; work pattern row 1 as for left front, working 2 dc into 2 ch space. Continue with pattern and colour changes as set for left front, inserting 2 ch space buttonhole on every fourth repeat of row 3 until work measures 13 cm.
Armhole row 1: work pattern to last 3dc, dc2tog, 1 dc.
Armhole row 2: 1 ch, dc2tog, pattern to end.
Armhole row 3: 1 ch, pattern to last 3 dc, dc2tog, 1 dc.
Continue without shaping until armhole measures 6 cm.
Neck row 1: ss to last 12 dc, 1 ch, pattern to end.
Neck row 2: 1 ch, pattern to last 3 dc, dc2tog, 1 dc.
Neck row 3: 1 ch, dc2tog, pattern to end.
Neck row 4: 1 ch, pattern to last 3 dc, dc2tog, 1dc.
Continue without shaping until armhole measures 11 cm. Fasten off.
BACK
Using A and 4 mm hook, make 37 chain.
Base row: working first dc into 3rd chain from hook, dc to end.
Work two rows dc.
Pattern row 1: 1ch, 1dc, (4ch, 2 dc) to end.
Pattern row 2: dc to end.
*Pattern row 3: ch 1, dc 11, ch 4, dc 12, ch 4, dc to end.
Pattern row 4: dc to end.
Repeat rows 3 and 4 three times, then rows 1 and 2. **
Repeat from * to ** , changing colours after each repeat, until work measures 13 cm.
Armhole shaping: decrease 1 stitch at each end of next 3 rows. Continue without shaping till armhole measures 11 cm, ending with wrong side row. Fasten off.
SLEEVES (Make 2)
Using A and 4 mm hook, make 27 chain. Working first dc into 3rd chain from hook, work 2 rows dc.
Row 3: dc, increasing 1 stitch at each end.
Row 4: 1 ch, 1 dc, (4 ch, 2 dc) to end.
Row 5: dc to end.
Row 6: 1 ch, increase 1 stitch, dc 8, 4 ch, 12 dc, 4 ch, dc to last stitch, increase 1.
Row 7: dc to end.
Repeat rows 6 and 7 three times, then rows 4 and 5 once, increasing one stitch at each end of every third row and incorporating into pattern. Change to B and continue with pattern as set, increasing every 3rd row until you have 36 stitches, then without shaping till work measures 15 cm.
Shape top: decrease 1 stitch at each end of next 3 rows, making sure you end with a wrong side row. Fasten off.
COLLAR
Using A and 4 mm hook, make 51 chain. Working first stitch into 3rd chain from hook, work 2 rows dc.
Next row: 1 ch, 1 dc, (4 ch, 2 dc) to end.
Continue in dc till work measures 6 cm. Fasten off.
Join shoulder seams. Stitch collar in place, making sure the popcorn row will be facing outwards. Sew sleeves in place and join side and sleeve seams. Using B and 3.25 mm hook, reattach yarn to bottom corner of right front and work crab stitch around the bottom of the garment, up the left front, around the collar edge and down the right front to your starting point. Fasten off. Using B and 3.25 mm hook, work crab stitch around the bottom of each sleeve. Sew buttons on left front to match buttonhole placements on right front.
HAT
Worked in baby DK on 3.50mm and 3.25 mm hooks. Takes about 50g white, 50g lemon.
Using A, make 63 chain.
Base row: 1 dc in second chain from hook, dc to end.
Work 1 row dc.
Pattern row 1: (2 dc, 4 ch) to end.
Pattern row 2: dc.
Pattern row 3: 1 ch, 5 dc, 4 ch, 10 dc, 4 ch to last six stitches, 6 dc.
Pattern row 4: dc to end.
Repeat rows 3 and 4 twice, then rows 1 and 2. Change to B. Continue in pattern till work measures 9cm ending with a right side row.
Decrease row: 1 ch, dc2tog to last stitch, 1 dc.
Next row: 1 ch, 2dc, 4ch, (5 dc, 4ch) to end.
Repeat decrease row.
Next row: 1 ch, 2 dc, (4ch, 3 dc, 4 ch, 2 dc) to end.
Next row; 1 ch, dc2tog to end.
Work 1 row dc.
Next row: dc2tog to end. Fasten off leaving long end. Using a needle work end through last row and draw tight, stitching to secure.
Using B and 3.25 mm hook, work a row of crab stitch around brim.
Using both colours, make small pompom and secure to crown.
TOTE BAG
Worked in baby DK on 3.50 mm hook throughout. Amount requires depends on size of bag you make.
Using A, make 4 ch, ss to form a ring.
First round: ch 3, 11 tr in ring, ss to top of 3 ch.
Second round: ch 3, 1 tr in next stitch, 2 tr in each stitch to end, ss to top of 3 ch.
Third round: ch 3, *2 tr in next stitch, I tr in next stitch, repeat from * to end.
Continue in trebles, adding I stitch between each increasing stitch until base reaches size desired. Change colour after each four rounds. Be sure you finish with an even number of stitches.
Next row: 2 ch, work 1 dc into the back of every stitch to end, ss to top of chain. Work rows in dc until you reach the next colour change, ending with a wrong side row.
Pattern row 1: 2 ch, 1 dc, (4ch, 2 dc) to end, ss to top of ch. TURN.
Pattern row 2: 2 ch, dc to end, ss to top of ch. TURN.
Pattern row 3: this will vary depending on how large a base you made. Work in dc interspersing 4 ch popcorns at
Regular intervals (mine came out at 20 dc between popcorns). TURN.
Pattern row 4: 2 ch, dc to end.
Repeat rows 3 and 4 three times, then rows 1 and 2. Change colour.
Continue in pattern, turning at the end of each row, till bag is the size you desire, ending on a right side row. Do NOT turn at the end of this and all following rows.
Next row (drawstring row): 2 ch, 1 dc into next 2 stitches, (2ch, miss 2 dc, 3 dc) to end.
Next row: ch into first space. Ch 3, (2tr, 1 ch, 3 tr) into space. Work (3 tr, 1 ch, 3 tr) into each space to end, ss to top of 3 ch. Fasten off.
Using A and B together, make a drawstring long enough to close your bag ( a rough guide is to make the length the diameter of your base times two or three). Leave a long tail of wool at each end of the string, and sew through the last few chain to make a simple bobble; or alternatively, make two very small pompoms and sew one to each cord end. Thread through the spaces on the drawstring row and secure to bag with a couple of stitches through the cord at the centre back.
[In reply to a question, the gauge is roughly 20 stitches and 10 rows to create a 10cm square.]
[In response to another comment, and thanks to Marcia for pointing out the problem, I have altered the start of the pattern to make it clearer how the popcorns are formed.]
It's too damn hot - driving me crazy!
This is a pattern I've designed for a very simple cute owl keyring. You will need a keyring base for it; they are usually on sale at hobby or yarn shops.
REQUIRES
Yarn - about 5g of any fine crochet cotton, plus small amount of white
Hook / Needles - 1.25
Sundries - small amount of black cotton for eyes, contrast colour for beak, basic keyring, small amount of toy stuffing
INSTRUCTIONS (Given in UK notation)
Begin with main colour, make a magic ring. Work 6 dc into this. Do not join at end of rounds. Rd 1; inc in each stitch. 12. Rd 2; (dc 1, inc 1) to end. 18. Rd 3; (dc 2, inc 1) to end. 24. Rd 4 - 5; dc. Rd 6; (dc 2, dec 1). 18. Rd 7 - 12; dc. Rd 13; (dc 1, dec 1). 12. Stuff now. Rd 14; ch 3, dc into 1st of 3 chain. Now fold top of owl together and slipstitch from front to back so as to close the opening. On last stitch, chain 3 and dc into 1st chain, ss into same stitch and fasten off.
To make the eyes, using white make a magic ring and work 6 dc into it, ss to join and fasten off. Now embroider the centre of the white circle for the pupil, and stitch to face of owl. Finally embroider a small v or triangle for the beak between and just below the eyes, and stitch the keyring loop to head using main colour yarn.
This variant uses small black beads for the pupils of the eyes.
Hope you enjoy making these; they really are so quick and easy.
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It's occurred to me that this is a good way of publicising a charity I've been trying to promote, one which could help save a lot of lives. The Little Yellow Duck Project was set up in memory of a young lady with a great fondness for ducks in all shapes and forms, who passed away while waiting for a transplant donor to be found. The idea is to get people to sign up as donors, not just of organs but of blood, stem cells, and other tissues that might save lives, all over the world. We do this by leaving ducks in various places, with a label inviting the finder to adopt the duck and visit the project website to put their find on the global map and maybe check the links to donor registers all around the world. It's fun making the ducks (and you don't have to be able to knit or crochet, we have people sewing ducks, folding them with origami, all kinds of handmade duckies!), rather exciting waiting for them to show up on the map and it's a great feeling helping to publicise a great cause. If you want to set a few of your own ducks free, or maybe sign up as a donor, or just learn more about the project, visit www.thelittleyellowduckproject.org. No money is asked for, only your time and support, and in this case five minutes really could save a life.
This is the first pattern I'm posting here, and it's an old favourite of mine, for a slightly creepy crochet toy. The copyright is mine, so don't sell the pattern, but you can sell toys made with it. All notation is in UK terms.
HELLO CTHULHU
Requires approximately 50g green double knitting yarn, 25g black double knitting yarn, toy stuffing, two suitable eyes (or in my case flat black noses) and a 3.5 mm hook.
Head
Using green, make 11 chain.
Round 1; miss first chain, 1 dc into next 9 ch, 3 dc in next ch. Working into back of chain, work 1 dc into next 8 ch, 2 dc into next chain. (22 stitches)
Round 2: *2 dc into next dc, 1 dc into next 8 dc, 2 dc into next 2 dc*. Repeat from * to * (28)
Round 3: *2 dc into next dc, 1 dc into next 9 dc, 2 dc into next dc, 1 dc into next dc, 2 dc into next dc, 1 dc into next stitch*. Repeat from * to *. (34)
Round 4: *2 dc into next stitch, 1 dc into next 10 stitches, 2 dc into next dc, 1 dc into next 2 stitches, 2 dc into next dc, 1 dc into next 2 stitches*, repeat from * to *. (40)
Round 5: *2 dc into next dc, 1 dc into next 11 stitches, 2 dc into next dc, 1 dc into next 3 stitches, 2 dc into next dc, 1 dc into next 3 stitches*, repeat from * to *. (46)
Round 6: * 2 dc into next dc, 1 dc into next 12 stitches, 2 dc into next dc, 1 dc into next 4 stitches, 2 dc into next dc, 1 dc into next 4 stitches*, repeat from * to *. (52)
Round 7: *2 dc into next stitch, 1 dc into next 13 stitches, 2 dc into next dc, 1 dc into next 5 dc, 2 dc into next dc, 1 dc into next 5 stitches*, repeat from * to *. (58)
Round 8: *2dc into next dc, 1 dc into next 14 dc, 2 dc into next stitch, 1 dc into next 6 dc, 2 dc into next dc, 1 dc into next 6 stitches*, repeat from * to *. (64)
Rounds 9 - 15. Dc into every stitch (64)
Round 16: *Decrease over next 2 dc, 1 dc into next 14 stitches, decrease over next 2 dc, 1 dc into next 6 stitches, decrease over next 2 dc, 1 dc into next 6 stitches*, repeat from * to *. (58)
Round 17: Dc into every stitch (58)
Round 18: Decrease over next 2 dc, 1 dc into next 5 dc. Into next dc, work 1 dc, ^make 6 chain. Miss first 3 chain, 3 dc into next 3 chain^ (one tentacle). Into same dc, work another tentacle. Work 2 tentacles into each of next 2 dc. 1 dc into each of next 5 dc, decrease over next 2 stitches, 1 dc into next 5 dc, decrease over next 2 dc, 1 dc into next 5 stitches, decrease over next 2 dc. I dc into next 13 stitches, decrease over next 2 dc, 1 dc into next 5 stitches, decrease over next 2 dc, 1 dc into next 5 dc. (55)
Round 19: 1 dc into each stitch to tentacles. Work 1 dc into back of each pair of tentacles, making sure you push the tentacles to the outer side, dc to end. (52)
Round 20: *Decrease over next 2 dc, 1 dc into next 12 stitches, decrease over next 2 dc, 1 dc into next 4 dc, decrease over next 2 dc, 1 dc into next 4 dc*, repeat from * to *. (46)
Round 21: *Decrease over next 2 dc, 1 dc into next 11 dc, decrease over next 2 stitches, 1 dc in next 3 dc, decrease over 2 dc, 1 dc into next 3 dc*, repeat from * to *. (40)
Round 22: *Decrease over next 2 stitches, 1 dc into next 10 dc, decrease over next 2 stitches, 1 dc into next 2 dc, decrease over next 2 dc, 1 dc into next 2 stitches*, repeat from * to * (34)
Round 23: *Decrease over next 2 dc, 1 dc into next 9 stitches, decrease over next 2 stitches, 1 dc, decrease over next 2 stitches, 1 dc*, repeat from * to *. (28)
Round 24: *Decrease over next 2 dc, 1 dc into next 8 stitches, decrease over next 2 dc, 1 dc into next 2 stitches*, repeat from * to *. Slip stitch to first stitch and fasten off, leaving long tail. (24)
If using toy eyes, set them in position before stuffing the head. Place eyes a couple of rows above the tentacles, leaving a gap of about two stitches at each side of the tentacles cluster.
Body
Using black, make 2 chain.
Round 1: into second ch from hook, work 6 dc. (I advise you to mark the beginning of each round from this point; I used a ring marker, but a bit of contrasting yarn works as well)
Round 2: 2 dc into each dc. (12)
Round 3: *2 dc into next stitch, 1 dc into next dc*, repeat to end. (18)
Round 4: *2 dc into next dc, 1 dc into next 2 stitches*, repeat to end. (24)
Round 5: *2 dc into next dc, 1 dc into next 3 stitches*, repeat. (30)
Round 6: *2 dc into next stitch, 1 dc into next 4 stitches*, repeat. (36)
Round 7: *2 dc into next dc, 1 dc into next 5 stitches*, repeat. (42)
Round 8: *2 dc into next dc, 1 dc into next 6 stitches*, repeat. (48)
Rounds 9 - 12: dc into every stitch. (48)
Round 13: *Decrease over next 2 dc, 1 dc into next 6 stitches*, repeat. (42)
Rounds 14 - 16: dc into each stitch (42). (I recommend you part-stuff the body at this point, as the opening narrows).
Round 17: *decrease over next 2 dc, 1 dc into next 5 stitches*, repeat. (36)
Round 18: dc to end.
Round 19: *Decrease over next 2 dc, 1 dc into next 4 dc*, repeat. (30)
Round 20: dc to end
Round 21: *Decrease over next 2 dc, 1 dc into next 3 stitches*, repeat. (24)
Round 22: dc to end. Fasten off.
Finish stuffing the body (you may find it helps to take a small amount of stuffing at a time and push it into the opening with the blunt end of your hook). Attach head to body using long tail left on head, and couching stitch.
Arms (2)
Using green, make 2 chain.
Round 1: 6 dc into second chain from hook.
Round 2: 2 dc into each stitch (12). Mark start of round.
Round 3: *2 dc into next dc, 1 dc into next stitch*, repeat. (18)
Round 4: dc to end
Round 5: *decrease over next 2 dc, 1 dc into next 4 dc*, repeat. (15)
Rounds 6 - 9: dc
Round 10: *decrease over next 2 dc, 1 dc into next 3 stitches*, repeat. (12)
Rounds 11 - 12: dc
Round 13: *decrease over next 2 dc, 1 dc into next 2 stitches*, repeat. (9)
Round 14: *decrease over next 2 dc, 1 dc*, repeat. Fasten off leaving long tail to sew on to body. (6)
Stuff arms and attach to body.
Feet (2)
Using green, make 9 chain.
Round 1: 1 dc into next 7 ch, 3 dc into end chain. Working down back of chain, 1 dc into next 6 ch, 2 dc into next ch. (18)
Round 2: *2 dc into next dc, 1 dc into next 6 stitches, 2 dc into next 2 dc*, repeat. (24)
Round 3: *2 dc into next dc, 1 dc into next 7 stitches, 2 dc into next dc, 1 dc into next stitch, 2 dc into next dc, 1 dc into next stitch*, repeat. (30)
Round 4: 1 dc into next 9 dc, decrease over next 2 stitches, 1 dc in next dc, decrease over next 2 dc, 1 dc in next stitch, decrease over next 2 dc, 1 dc into next 13 dc, fasten off. (27).
Stuff feet and stitch to body.
Wings (2)
Using green, make 4 chain.
Row 1: miss 1 ch, 1 dc into next 3 ch, ch 1, turn.
Row 2: 1 dc into next 3 dc, ch 4, turn.
Row 3: Miss 1 ch, 3 dc into next 3 ch, 3 half trebles into next 3 dc, ch 1, turn.
Row 4: One dc into 3 half trebles, 5 ch, turn.
Row 5: Miss first ch, 1 dc into next 4 ch, 1 half treble into next 3 stitches, ch 1, turn.
Row 6: 1 dc into next 4 stitches , 6 ch, turn.
Row 7: 5 dc into next 5 ch, 4 half trebles into next 4 stitches. Ch 3.
Work 8 dc evenly along top edge of wing (opposite the points). Ss into first ch, fasten off leaving long tail. Stitch to body.
Bow
Part 1: using black, make 10 chain. Work 9 dc into next 9 chain, 1 ch, turn. Work 5 more dc rows, fasten off.
Part 2: using black, make 13 chain. Work 1 dc into each of 12 chain, 1 ch, turn. Work 1 more row, fasten off.
Attach part two to centre of part one and stitch firmly to it at the narrow end, then wrap free end around centre of part one until you have a bow shape. Stitch together, then attach to head on right at top.
Hello! Welcome to my world and to that awkward first post which attempts to set out some reason why I am launching my bletherings on the world and why anyone should bother to read them. As a relative newcomer to the world of blogging I will be feeling my way somewhat blindly, so please bear with me. My primary aim is to have a platform for the patterns I create for my hobbies of knitting and crochet (far more knitting than crochet, I warn you) and perhaps to show off the things I make from other people's patterns. I have been putting them on a webpage elsewhere but I'm not altogether happy with that arrangement, so this will be my new gallery - at least for now. I also may be tempted to blog about other things that interest me, like horror movies, current affairs or bumblebees. But that's getting a bit daring, so for now it will just be yarn-based. Like this.
These chaps are part of a set I'm working on, crocheted versions of great British fictional detectives, and I hope the finished pattern will be one of the things I post here. I hope you'll enjoy yourselves while you're here!
